is there any downfall to 1350 u-joints besides price? I can't imagine the extra weight really amounting to anything.
i say if you're going to do it, go all out and get 1350 U-joints. for a little bit more now, the added peace of mind is worth it IMO.
is there any downfall to 1350 u-joints besides price? I can't imagine the extra weight really amounting to anything.
9.875@150mph
2012 Iowa Manual Shootout Champion, on low boost setting. -Flying Ryan
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten." - Ben Franklin
not that i've ever heard of anyway. and with a car as light as yours, the driveshaft would probably be good to go for years and years.
You'll never notice the few grams more a 1350 weighs over a standard joint. When your dealing with something so small in diameter it take a lot of weight to notice a diffefence. Just like a multile plate clutch weighs as much as a standard diameter clutch, but revs faster because the weight is near the center.
I've been running a steel one from sadler with 1350 Ujoints. like slvr said its so small in diameter the rotational inertia is hardly effected by the different materials, theres alot better places to spend that extra money and the piece of mind of running steel is worth it IMO
Mine too is a Sadler unit with 1350's.
I had sadler cut, weld, balance my alumium mark vIII on with 1350 joints also.
Last edited by stangvortech; 11-12-2011 at 06:44 PM.