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6 in the wrx chattered bad. It was a spec and the pedal was like stock. Switched to ACT full face and no chatter but heavy pedal.
The 6 puck in drifte's talon was a freak. It was so smooth lol
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A lighter pressure plate will help smooth out a 6 puck. In DSM's I've had a 6 puck sprung hub act 2600 and it was a trans breaker. I Liked the street disk way more, but I was making way over the rated torque on c16 so I stuck a new 2600 plate in with a clutchnet disk. One thing I noticed is that even though the pressure plate was new it had some cupping on the surface and that caused the disk to only work against the outside of the plate effectively increasing the pressure against the disk and making it harder to slip. I've used the same disk with a centerforce pressure plate and it was much better, but still slightly grabby.
I have a used rs4 plate and stage 3 disk that I made for my car like 3 years ago if I ever get around to using it. The disk is o/fe or organic on the pressure plate side and feramic on the flywheel. Both are full face and it's just like what vast/southbend would call the stage 3 back in the day. The more pucks the smoother it will be in most cases. I know some don't like the SAC pressure plate, but it's the key to a long lasting clutch. It will really let you use up most of the disk material, but I understand in all race applications it can have issues and fail.
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well i have a stock pp with the 6 puck currently...that was by mistake. but I believe that most of the clutches ive seen use the sachs mechanism besides i think it was centerforce.
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Interesting topic. I have been pondering picking up a full face Kevlar button disc similar to the one you are talking about. Granted I have a different vehicle, drive train, and clutch manufacturer. Currently I have a clutchnet sprung 6puck and slipping it is worthless but it has held everything I have put on it.
I have just wondered if the full face disc would hold as well and possibly be a bit more enjoyable to drive.
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depends on the power man. I actually have the clutchnet disc also :D. I'd say you could run a very strong PP and a kevlar disc if you're up there a bit...just depends on what power and car.
Audi = heavy, torquey motor, 2-step launches is what im concerned about blowing this clutch up with
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I just don't know if people really need a two step to launch if you catch it on the upswing just right. I cut a 1.59 and a lot of low 1.6's in my old 16g dsm setup at cedar falls. I don't think a two step would have helped that at all. I do think the 2600 and street disk made that work so well on shitty all season 205/55/16 tires that were air'd down slightly. You could slip it quit a bit, but I also would do a quick scrub off burnout. Things did get harder when i needed more clutch and trying to get the power down as I neede a more agressive clutch and the powerband shifted. If I went to the track more with my S4 anymore I'd run my 16" snow tires since they are so light and have a good amount of sidewall. High performance street/track tires launch like shit and break parts from wheel hop, etc. I wouldn't even run 4 drag radials on a AWD stick car, just go stright to a bias ply.
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dont know if its going to matter...found out the timing was off by two teeth on the timing belt...I think it'll be ok, ran fine, once codes were clear it idled smooth.. but preparing for the worst.
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A good engine with stock cams will be pulling about 20-21" of vacuum on a 2.7t at idle with no extra load on the engine.
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i've always liked being cheap and simple with the single disc clutches. then i got my first twin disc and its amazing. Mcleod twin for $800ish . really light pedal, slippable and proven to 1000whp. unfortunately they only do domestic clutches
if you want a quote on spec, act or comp clutches let me know.
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well it was pulling about 20ish at idle off the boost gauge...but no already have the clutch Automods...
