Dustin's turbo truck build

[DustinsDuster]

so i decided that i have taken too many other threads into frantic oblivian talking about my project, and that i would finally make my own thread for it. sorry to all the others who's threads i derailed.

i never even knew about the swap really until Derek bought a Ram50 last year and started to do it himself. in case you didnt know, the engine being swapped in is your garden variety 4G63 out of a DSM. i had toyed with the idea of taking the drivetrain from my Duster and swapping it into my truck, but this sounded a lot more appealing. i wanted to keep the truck daily driverable, and the 4cyl's gas milage, fuel injection and reliability(compared to the V8 anyway). that, and (pretty much) everything would bolt in!

ok, enough talk, how about some pics.

the subject(stock, before):
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_bf0ba5e313d74184bb974eba87a56655.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/41/m_d2a92b79264c4f4f93ceb5f34345b16c.jpg
REPRESENT
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_3add12a4dd5447ed97b67a5b9ab5ba07.jpg

so now i needed a motor. more than a motor, i needed lots of stuff. so i set about looking for a cheap DSM to buy. i ended up finding a '90 Eclipse GS on Dragsource. it was just what i was looking for- a running car(pretty much) that was beat up enough to be cheap. i managed to talk the owner down to $750, and drove the car home from Des Moines on 3 cylinders. it leaked oil like hell, missed, grinded going into gear, etc., but it did have a small 16g- a slight silver lining.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/62/l_a516f21248594783b662991326068c0c.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/10/l_5354ee2cfab64994838164a439e02068.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/10/l_251e5cd9536c4095b2eb3f9e6120f4d8.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/13/l_9ae1c76086b24e78828a78aa6699376d.jpg

in a week or two, i managed to strip everything i needed out of the car, and sell most of what i didnt need to recoup a few hundred bucks.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/24/l_95962165a9e84d50adab5201c6b7a36f.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/63/l_7f92b8c651dd4776bed4500a1fc3eb85.jpg

so at this point i had a big peice of the puzzle, but i still needed a lot of things and also needed to do a lot more reasearch. http://www.projectzerog.com proved to be an invaluable tool, as it is completely dedicated to RWD 4G63 swaps. learning from other people's mistakes and elbow grease can really save you a lot of time and money. Derek also provided a lot of insight from doing his own swap. thanks man.

after collecting parts and doing a lot of reasearch, i finally got off my ass and got to work on the engine. the teardown of the supposedly rebuilt engine :rolls: revealed more dirt and grime than youd expect to see in Paris Hilton's shower.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/32/l_3ebd9b88579e42f08c619824bcf17de9.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/41/l_2f81e2d7a1574af5b88865fc47acfce5.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/57/l_21ac00679ba548b493b53b7b18274975.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/50/l_25b8ca0af7ac4e4aa00b4e371de80a65.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/8/l_92394f0c47eb401aa4ffb8259b028a27.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/27/l_3f565ccb89e149e29e41296133ae0cbe.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/36/l_8e72ebe803c14ac5883e19425d1f0997.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/21/l_bb182d1085c04fb589361d3ad2774361.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/44/l_08f2b2dc1f9b4cb99bd83c55a7eaeaae.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/32/l_0cdf45f98539451b849476f32c6f930f.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/31/l_05567f26533e468ea58d035f3a5ee3a8.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/30/l_d1475815d25d4537b6dbaeb98ef8d469.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/36/l_e7c172faaa4a491682da85fe425b4a72.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/31/l_c52442810ee74edab52f77a21e488122.jpg

after seeing what i had gotten myself into, i decided to take the engine to Performance Concepts in Marion to have it cleaned and checked out. the owner, Steve, is a family friend and really went the extra mile with my engine. they hadn't ever built a 4G63, but after seeing the quality of the work they do, and just how meticulous they are, i am completely confident in their work. the original plan was just to disassemble the motor, clean it as best i could, and reassemble it with new gaskets/bearings/rings and throw it all back together on the cheap. there turned out to be too much wrong to do that, so i just let Performance do all the work. you get what you pay for with engine work. i know i paid a bit more than most would care to spend, but this is going to be my d/d, and i can't afford to have it breaking down on me.

checking everything showed that the block would need to be bored, but the crank and rods were good and could be reused as is. i got .020" over Mahle forged pistons and also had them rebuild the head with a good valvejob as well. i also got a new oil pump and eliminated the balance shafts while i was in there. i am very pleased with the results so far:
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/43/l_9a1947af1f204969bb8300950bcac8b1.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/43/l_9a1947af1f204969bb8300950bcac8b1.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/64/l_4851a0a208f14efe894b3c5da024da9c.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/43/l_680520d438ca4010b4618a685f77c708.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/27/l_8719956ea8054df69d3d363b01d99501.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/61/l_822f6b2e525247528f544d8fb7f3a070.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/36/l_3ee4473b03ce4239ae60ef715f70e6bd.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/32/l_b04c411e6a1a47db956968cf1824c230.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/17/l_33ad9e2cc1b24231a008492cfbfee22f.jpg

well, that's all i have pics of at the moment, i'll try to get some more soon, and will be updating the thread as i get further and further along in the swap.

don't be shy with comments/feedback/questions/advice; as you can tell, i love talking about this stuff!

[Jappbox]

is that a new timing tensoner, or just new bolts, cause it looks used. Other than that it looks great, I allways use locktite on all the timing belt components as well as all the accesorys. you dont want the timing pully to come off causeing you to be stuck on the road with lots of engine damage. keep us updated!

[DustinsDuster]

they had the old idler and tensioner pullies on there to figure out how much to grind off the waterpump(that's the waterpump from the 2.0L carb'd MM/D50 engine). you'll see new pullies when i get some more pics of it.

[TbTalon94]

He's talking about the actual hydraulic tensionar Dustin. You really want to put a NEW one on there if it's used from that other engine.

[Scott]

Im not sure what to say about this thing except it looks like a badass project man.. I like the fact your giving it a good chance to work and putting alot of effort into it instead of just slapping parts together with old worn, dirty components and hoping it works.. I bet that little sucker will run pretty good, whats it weigh like maybe 2400lbs??? put a decent trans and a 8.8 rear in there, sticky tires, you can go out and smoke alot of cars with it. I guess I'll be the first to complain about the truck itself, put some other rims on there "at least some decent steel ones" lower that damn thing. get rid of the semi truck mirrors and stickers on it.. maybe some fresh paint. I bet Steve is waiting for another paint project by now isnt he?? My suggestion would be a cool ass exhaust on this thing!!! This may sound wierd but if you look on Ebay or something and search boomtubes, its the nascar "mufflers" that are really flat, I always wanted to use these on something that wouldnt look redneck, maybe you can incorporate them into your project somehow.. I like it alot, I wish I didnt have so much stuff going on so I could work on projects like this!! kinda jealous to be honest, good work keep it up! :bigthumb:

[Drifte]

I have those seats out of your eclipse now. Projects coming along nicely. LIke the other two said, lock tite timing components (i used red this time, no bs and stiff motor mounts). Hydrolic tensioners always a god thing to replace as well as the pulleys. I made you a picture of what you were going for didnt i? Whens this going in, I thought you would be driving the truck all winter now.

[McKeever]

Sweet...another turbo mini!

M.S.T.A :BURNOUT: LOL

[DustinsDuster]

He's talking about the actual hydraulic tensionar Dustin. You really want to put a NEW one on there if it's used from that other engine.

im not sure, but they bought a whole tensioner kit, so i would assume its new. especially with the way they do things.


Im not sure what to say about this thing except it looks like a badass project man.. I like the fact your giving it a good chance to work and putting alot of effort into it instead of just slapping parts together with old worn, dirty components and hoping it works.. I bet that little sucker will run pretty good, whats it weigh like maybe 2400lbs??? put a decent trans and a 8.8 rear in there, sticky tires, you can go out and smoke alot of cars with it. I guess I'll be the first to complain about the truck itself, put some other rims on there "at least some decent steel ones" lower that damn thing. get rid of the semi truck mirrors and stickers on it.. maybe some fresh paint. I bet Steve is waiting for another paint project by now isnt he?? My suggestion would be a cool ass exhaust on this thing!!! This may sound wierd but if you look on Ebay or something and search boomtubes, its the nascar "mufflers" that are really flat, I always wanted to use these on something that wouldnt look redneck, maybe you can incorporate them into your project somehow.. I like it alot, I wish I didnt have so much stuff going on so I could work on projects like this!! kinda jealous to be honest, good work keep it up! :bigthumb:

the truck weighs just over 2600lbs as it sits right now. it might shave a few lbs with the new wheels i got for it:

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/55/l_d729a214b6184952adb04154e53fc21f.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/5/l_bdd34e141e1a46398a379b5b13baa372.jpg

those will have to wait until next year when i can put the 8.8 under the truck and swap to toyota hubs in the front to get the 5x4.5" lug pattern.

the mirrors are already gone- swapped for some small ones mounted up by the window like normal. i just have to smooth the bolt holes off along with the rest of the bodywork. i also dont like the sticker stripe alonge the bottom, but the truck would look too plain with it just solid silver, so i think i am going to paint the bottom black once i finish the bodywork. eventually, i am sure i'll have steve paint it- as i cant see myself paying a lot to have my daily driver painted.

im not really sure what i am going to do for an exhaust yet. i dont want it to be obnoxious at all. id really like to keep it quiet if i could.


I have those seats out of your eclipse now. Projects coming along nicely. LIke the other two said, lock tite timing components (i used red this time, no bs and stiff motor mounts). Hydrolic tensioners always a god thing to replace as well as the pulleys. I made you a picture of what you were going for didnt i? Whens this going in, I thought you would be driving the truck all winter now.

i have to change the intake gaskets on Kelli's grand am, and then i can start driving that while the truck is down. hopefully start tearing into the truck in the next week or two.

here's the photoshop'd pic Colton did for me. not too shabby:

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/12/l_4c12da313a844a3e8ba6e0f690f5e65f.jpg

[slobalt]

Dodge truck powered by a DSM, interesting. Motor looks good too.

Makes me want to get a smaller truck, what with the gas prices and all.......

[DustinsDuster]

Dodge truck powered by a DSM, interesting. Motor looks good too.

Makes me want to get a smaller truck, what with the gas prices and all.......

more interesting will be the GM trans and Ford rear end behind all of that...

[Inferno333]

Good call on the GM tranny.

I'm looking forward to how this goes.

[Drifte]

oh cool, you did get the wheels and did the mirrors already. WIth a turbo its pretty easy to have a good exhaust note and not to loud. Catalytic converters are pretty expensive, so I'd just run a glass pack towards the front, then a pretty lookin straight through glass pack in the rear too.

[DustinsDuster]

this showed up today- woohoo!

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/49/l_e7562a1acd05407b9d1f29c29d89b55c.jpg

[Luminatorz34]

Jeez Dustin, youre going to town on this thing...i 2nd coltons idea of a glass pack. i had his talon and he had a glasspack (cherrybomb) welded in basically as a resonator and then a ebay muffler.it sounded really good but wasnt annoying either and id imagine would be cheap to build also

[DustinsDuster]

started tearing into it a bit tonight- got most of the stuff in front off and pulled the A/C condensor out:

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/37/l_c50da43a8c7a4d2bb115841645d77951.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/45/l_10db1d28dfcd4144bb6602b987705662.jpg

i just couldnt help myself:
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_b9c5dd5326c94986a1becfcda044b6eb.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/55/l_595b7742fd5e400e9629620f624547ab.jpg

with the A/C condensor out, there is actually enough room to fit the intercooler behind the stock hood latch and support with no modifications. after looking at it, the actual radiator support looks thick enough that i think i can modify it and actually fit the A/C condensor sandwiched between the radiator and intercooler- but that will be a much later project...

[DustinsDuster]

been a little lazy uploading pics, but heres a few more. the engine and tranny are out. here's a little tip- if you dont pull the shifter first, the trans wont want to come out very easily...

i need a power washer, stat!
http://a662.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/82/l_6ea8880107a7688c6600bb9df8c157d5.jpg

80hp worth of fury:
http://a411.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/92/l_daa8877b58cfca4aae6b1f857979ecc2.jpg

i cant wait to eliminate all of these vaccuum hoses:
http://a16.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/7/l_5cb5a5b53c10884c82242ecec53bf74f.jpg

probably not what youd expect to see parked next to my truck:
http://a753.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/126/l_8b0815ae0055e25d05f68a9cad252b68.jpg

[LayneAlways]

Very nice. Good luck!

[DustinsDuster]

so does anyone have any idea what this box on my inner fender is? a lot of the vaccuum and vent hoses go into it, and it plugs into the truck's stock wiring. id really like to get rid of all of it if it isnt necessary.

[derek072887]

looks like your purge solenoid for the charcoal canister.... idk if you need it at all..... im sure you know what the charcoal canister does, with a build like yours i dont think you will need to worry about fuel vapors

[Drifte]

idk, but im having fun watching the progress. And seeing all the parts your truck uses that are the same as my cars. Its neat, its like you have a conquest truck basically.

[TbTalon94]

Dustin you don't need ANY vacuum lines except to your turbo components, and of course the brake master cylinder. Basically get rid of them all. It won't make a difference on a DD, and it really gets rid of clutter.

BTW, your intake mani is almost done :)

[DustinsDuster]

so the guys on projectzerog informed me that my carburetor is actually electric and has an "ecu" so to speak. even better, i can get rid of all of it. cleanin that bitch up!

[Drifte]

Heres a bit of information for ya.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-te ... -pics.html (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/293736-jake-hs-rear-wheel-drive-build-up-pics.html)

[DustinsDuster]

picked this up in Chicago on Saturday; it's a big sum-bitch:

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/49/l_5a849b8e71e14571a5d54d472d290c22.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/26/l_54b3801d3f4b473e99aeaab574a23f10.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/2/l_f83e91b0e17a4f6cafbc4796dd8cbeb0.jpg

the trans is almost as big around as whole bellhousing on the stock truck 5 speed- so it looks like next year there will be some floor pan surgery.

in case i never posted pics, heres the rear end that's gonna get narrowed, and built up with 4.56 gears:

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/4/l_5f2539c8552b4493a7e99daa36d6c626.jpg

[Luminatorz34]

hows this coming along Dustin? ive been quite anxious here lately

[Scott]

dude that trans is huge, time to invest in a plasma cutter to open up that trans tunnel

[DustinsDuster]

im waiting on the flywheel right now, getting bored for a throwout bearing, then the motor/trans can go in the truck and i can start wiring it and getting the I/C piping mocked up. believe me, i'll keep you all posted. at the moment, im still trying to figure out how to built a mount for the P/S pump- the waterpipe goes right through where the old mount bolts up.

and yeah scott, the trans is huge- i have a lot of cutting ahead of me...

[krustindumm]

eliminate the power steering.

[DustinsDuster]

eliminate the power steering.

turns like a bitch with the p/s box and the small wheel- drove it for over a year like that. if i can hunt down a parts truck with manual steering, i'll probably swap it over- we'll see.

[DJ0820]

Ditch the power steering and hit the gym :baby:

[DustinsDuster]

Ditch the power steering and hit the gym :baby:

i'd be happy to take you up on an arm wrestling match sometime...

[krustindumm]

Could try a little less caster too. Might even help the handling, especially if you use shorter or stiffer sidewall tires.

[DustinsDuster]

Could try a little less caster too. Might even help the handling, especially if you use shorter or stiffer sidewall tires.

yeah, but that would cause uneven tire wear, and i dont want to deal with that in my dailydriver. good idea though.

[Scott]

nah, caster wont cause uneven tire wear.. maybe a little bit of oversteer going into the corners. Your thinking about camber probably Dustin, I'd keep that power steering, manual steering sucks I have a car with it and I dont like it.

[DustinsDuster]

i always mix those two up- my mistake. either way- i would like to keep as many comforts as i can for my D/D...

[Drifte]

does it have a/c

[DustinsDuster]

it did stock,it wont to start out with after the swap. im saving all of the pieces and my try to put it back in sometime down the road. i have heard of guys trying to mount the P/S pump where the A/C compressor went, but i dont like the idea for two reasons:

1.would have to find another place to mount the A/C pump, which i dont want to do.

2.the P/S lines would then run across the engine bay, which would look like shit no matter what.

good idea though- ive thought about it a lot before.

[DustinsDuster]

so its been a long while, and ive gotten some stuff done. i got my flywheel back- surfaced, blasted, modified for the throwout bearing. cant find the pics of it right now; too bad- its damn pretty.

i ran into a problem- i found that the t-stat housing relocation fitting sits the housing directly on the waterpump pulley. i have heard of some guys running into this. im fairly certain that i can cut the shaft of the fitting at an angle and rotate it a bit, to push the t-stat housing up and to the right enough to clear the pulley. Trevor, interested?

pics of the interference:
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/30/l_47da64cfe6bb4ff2907bd5336314f050.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/6/l_290a0aef68ea4795b1392a44890a0326.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/28/l_3c88e863dee545ee901336c0dafafbdf.jpg

i have heard many ideas on how to remedy the worry of stagnant coolant at the back of the head, and here's what i came up with. with all the complex ideas i heard about, i decided to listen to Occam's Razor and try to go the simplest route possible. the original idea was to drill and tap holes in both the t-stat housing and the block-off plate and run a line between them just to create some relief of pressure and a bit of flow of coolant to the back of the head. a nice surprise i found was that i didnt need one of the fittings in the t-stat housing because i eliminated the EGR, so i just got a 6an x 3/8"npt fitting. should be a pretty clean setup when finished. pics:
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/53/l_888b4e729ead474d98edd8a19f8f5e75.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_f1224e2385174bfd9dd38c602dab8f66.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/48/l_626257b700c24d3783d84c73bcccb6ce.jpg

starting to come together:
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/26/l_bdefe18d81db4944bebea2ea6c8c084b.jpg


so Trevor showed me the flexible turbo drain line Extreme PSI sells, so i bought the kit- not even thinking about me having to switch the turbo around 180 degrees in my truck. i thought i had made a $70 mistake until i flipped the line over and found it just long enough to bolt up. i couldnt believe it! the only problem i see might coming around is how the line extends past the face of the motor mount(see pics), but after looking at the mount face on the frame, i think the line will extend right beside it and miraculously snake around it and back into the oilpan. fingers are crossed...

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/35/l_2f0ba201c5954508ad32a3a52f3ad2ba.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/38/l_ffbfa9bf073a4d758cd3ec81949f1324.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/26/l_d2ae66363d9b47b2abbdf8591ae6fedc.jpg

welp, thats about it for now- i'll be working on it this week after work, so i'll post some more pics when i get a chance.

[TbTalon94]

I could modify that piece, but the 6-an lines would probably work just fine. Are you going to run a timing belt cover? If so your going to have to hack that thing up pretty good to fit over that piece. Lookin good though, keep up the good work.

[Drifte]

looking pretty good, any work on the truck bay done as well?

[DustinsDuster]

so im at another crossroads now; the original plan was to use the stock Mighty Max waterpump, clearenced to fit under the timing belt tensioner, and the stock MM waterpipe. the problems with this setup soon became aparent. the MM waterpipe has no (convenient) provision for the turbo coolant line. it also blocks two bolt holes for the side motor mount. i do not need that mount, but i would like to mount the powersteering pump like stock, or at least raise it off that mount somehow and maybe run the intercooler piping under it. the MM waterpump also locates the pulley too far out, as my previous post said.

so i got my t-stat fitting back from Trevor today along with an old 4G63 waterpump. i realized if i modified the 4G63 waterpipe right, i could still use the stock MM lower radiator hose, have a (convenient) provision for the turbo coolant line, and the waterpipe would still run around the back of the engine to hook up to my heater core. the problem with this is that the coolant will have a chance to head into the engine before the heater core and turbo. this is not dissimilar from the stock MM waterpump, but just stretched out a bit more. i am not sure if it will flow fully down to the turbo and heater core. any insights?

so what do you guys think? im not worried about modifying the waterpipe as my grandpa can both braze and solder. here's a pic of what i was thinking:

[Drifte]

I am not quiet sure I follow. But I can tell you I welded on that with a basic flux core welder with no problem what soever. Also if for some reason it doesn't work out, I have at least 1 water pipe sitting here if you need it.

[krustindumm]

Don't water cool the turbo, it will be fine.

[DustinsDuster]

Don't water cool the turbo, it will be fine.


coming from the guy who drove his car around with no clutch for a month.

i want this thing to be as reliable as possible- if all i need is an AN line and some fittings, thats fine.

[lil krumm]

Don't water cool the turbo, it will be fine.


coming from the guy who drove his car around with no clutch for a month.

i want this thing to be as reliable as possible- if all i need is an AN line and some fittings, thats fine.


ya know your kinda of fucking ass holes sometimes. you asked for opinions and he gave his. you didnt need to come back with a smart ass response that has nothing to do with anything.

[Luminatorz34]

x2 on the water cooling of the turbo..you dont absolutly need it. if you dont water cool the turbo youll just have to let the motor cool down via turbo timing it, just let the oil cool down a bit before shutting iit down completly, or youll start burning oil in the turbo

[Drifte]

^ yea some turbos dont have this option from the factory anyway.

[DustinsDuster]

ya know your kinda of fucking ass holes sometimes. you asked for opinions and he gave his. you didnt need to come back with a smart ass response that has nothing to do with anything.

im just flipping him some shit, like he does a lot as well. its all in good fun.

we'll see, im starting to read and learn more about the water cooling, and feel a little better about not running a line. i might try it, but i just realized i might have to rotate the turbo even more to get the oil drain a bit more away from the motor mount- in which case i might not be able to get a waterline on the turbo at all anyway. we'll see. fuck, making this shit work can be a pain...

[DJ0820]

I think I ran my water lines off of one of the hoses on my intake manifold on the CRX. The line that goes out of the intake mani and back to the head. Instead of having a foot long hose I just ran the lines to my turbo. Worked fine.

[DustinsDuster]

the waterpipe that runs from the waterpump to the heater core has another outlet on it, but i didnt really want to loop a coolant line 180 degrees and bring it all the way back around the motor. i suppose if i really get nervous about it, i could just Tee off the waterpipe closer to the turbo. thanks for the imput guys.

[DJ0820]

My coolant lines ran around the motor and were about 3 or 4 feet each way. And come to think of it I had returning into the head right where my coolant temp sensor is and it never fucked with that at all. I wouldn't be too worried about it, the coolant system is pressurized enough I'd say. The only line you need to worry about is the oil return line from the turbo to oil pan. That one is gravity feed.

Hell if you spliced it in before the heater core you might get heat faster when it is chilly out.

[McKeever]

Any Updates?

[Mufflover]

I think I ran my water lines off of one of the hoses on my intake manifold on the CRX. The line that goes out of the intake mani and back to the head. Instead of having a foot long hose I just ran the lines to my turbo. Worked fine.
Yeah I would take some advice from a guy that drove a pile, what did that crx make 90hp thats some big power dude. go domestic or go home.

[JustinS]

I think I ran my water lines off of one of the hoses on my intake manifold on the CRX. The line that goes out of the intake mani and back to the head. Instead of having a foot long hose I just ran the lines to my turbo. Worked fine.
Yeah I would take some advice from a guy that drove a pile, what did that crx make 90hp thats some big power dude. go domestic or go home.
You sound like a redneck hick.

[Mufflover]

I think I ran my water lines off of one of the hoses on my intake manifold on the CRX. The line that goes out of the intake mani and back to the head. Instead of having a foot long hose I just ran the lines to my turbo. Worked fine.
Yeah I would take some advice from a guy that drove a pile, what did that crx make 90hp thats some big power dude. go domestic or go home.
You sound like a redneck hick.

thanks.

[DJ0820]

I think I ran my water lines off of one of the hoses on my intake manifold on the CRX. The line that goes out of the intake mani and back to the head. Instead of having a foot long hose I just ran the lines to my turbo. Worked fine.
Yeah I would take some advice from a guy that drove a pile, what did that crx make 90hp thats some big power dude. go domestic or go home.

Went from 90hp stock to probably double that, daily drove reliably for at least a year, and I beat the holy hell out of it. Ran with an LT1 camaro and could melt the tires through the top of second gear. I was 16 or 17 at the time. Built on the funds from min wage Hy-Vee employment. Just because it is under 200hp doesn't mean it can't be fun or fast in a 2000lb car.

So you sir can go pound some sand up your car-less ass.

[Luminatorz34]

Hey Dustin...hows this coming along? been quite some time

[DustinsDuster]

it hasnt been really- been working non-stop on the house; but now that the housewarming party is over, i told my grandpa i wanted to take some time to work on my truck(he's been the prime driving factor of all the home projects), so we'll see what the next few weeks brings.

i have the engine and trans bolted together, and bolted into the truck. had to BFH the firewall a bit, and tweak the heater core outlet and inlet, but they clear now...barely. just been trying to figure out how i am going to have to run things to get everything to fit right, pretty sure im going to have to relocate the alternator to the driverside(firewall on DSMs) which means no A/C ever again. it sucks, but eh- A/C never worked since ive owned the truck anyway...

[Drifte]

Theirs some kits available for rear mount alt. Your just as well off to make the little bracket yourself, maybe change out to a saturn alt though. More output, more reliable. Truck looks good as it sits though. Let me know if you ever want to sell it ;)

[DustinsDuster]

Theirs some kits available for rear mount alt. Your just as well off to make the little bracket yourself, maybe change out to a saturn alt though. More output, more reliable. Truck looks good as it sits though. Let me know if you ever want to sell it ;)

ive found some pics of a homemade lower alternator mount made from the stock A/C brace and the P/S brace that i think i am going to emulate. the Saturn alternator might be a possibility down the road, but i have that almost new shiney one i bought from Trevor- and i just cant bare to swap to something else when theres nothing wrong with that one yet. im actually wondering if the alternator will live any longer being away from the turbo this way...

[DustinsDuster]

so my harness has the plug cut off for the one plug sensor on the t-stat, and the other connectors cut for the other temp sensors. there are five terminals that need a connection, and five wires, but i need to know which ones go where! the wires i have are (2) yellow wires with green stripe, (1) green wire with yellow stripe, (1) green wire with black stripe, and (1) black wire with green stripe. heres a pic of the wires:

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9172/wires01.jpg


and a pic of the t-stat housing:

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4210/tstat.jpg

im also wondering what two of these connectors are for:

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8527/wires02.jpg

these wires are between the injector plugs and ballast resistor plug. i figured out the one plug is for the knock sensor, but the other plug and the "T" connector i can't figure out.

can anyone help? does anyone have a harness laying around the could check out for me?

[Luminatorz34]

if i recall the black and white plug is for the knock sensor...and the other one was a tester plug. you can plug some diagnostic tool into it and test some stuff....cant remember exactly for sure tho..also on your wiring the black/green stripe goes to the single spaded sensor, and the yellow/greens go to the double spaded sensors.and greens go to top for your low coolant sensor

[DustinsDuster]

took a few pics tonight. dove into the wiring, and man, what a task it seems like! it's intimidating, but im also kindof enjoying tracing everything down and figuring out what does what where- i havent tackled something this challenging(for me anyway, ive never done much wiring work), heh. anyway, here are some pics:

the engine bay wiring looks worse than it really is here; everythings just all spread out to trace wires right now to see what i can get rid of-
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/10/l_0886af57ede34a7587d78a9533001e1e.jpg

finally got the dash out- actually pretty simple wiring behind it.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/71/l_200ec530fbf0403bbb5cb1da97851d47.jpg

DSM main engine harness and ECU- stripped down and labeled
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/22/l_a2a411dbcc3e486fa61183c67721c597.jpg

other branch of the engine wiring:
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/73/l_fc2ab963d9a14646ba29ad5c81f22709.jpg

plugs from the trucks harness that i have to figure out how to power the DSM ECU and harness with:
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/68/l_11fcf81f47274b48b9eaec5a72b92516.jpg


ive got a lot of work to do- and if i can get this all to work right, i feel like the worst part of the swap will be over. i'll hopefully be updating this thread a bit more now that im working on the truck more often now.

[McKeever]

Looks like if you keep up the good work you could have it driving before winter!

[DustinsDuster]

time for an update. i was determined to keep powersteering in the truck, and with my alternator relocated to the drivers side(see my other thread), i figured i could make a low slung powersteering pump mount to clear all the turbo piping and what not. i cut a part off of one of the 4G63's motor, and managed to utilize some more 1/4" angle iron to brew up the mount. i also relocated the P/S reservoir to the back of the engine bay to make room for the MAF and air filter at the front of the engine. still trying to figure out where i want to mount the windshield washer reservoir and radiator overflow, more on that later.

pics of the P/S set up:

mock-up
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/20/l_748922456cfc452da89409734d7828fa.jpg

painted up
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/5/l_4b6cafea653d41659ee17416c0e29430.jpg

opening up the turbo side
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/23/l_79b40128e3364e50b2c1d5326249c3a9.jpg

all bolted up
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/28/l_81bdb6ebd6054b79a1cacf08223a0810.jpg

i took the straight hose nipple from the truck's pump and bolted it to the DSM pump. the top post fits with the stock truck banjo hose.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/5/l_ef076401d40a46d1a3916bbec67207e2.jpg

relocated P/S reservoir; have to get longer hose to run up to the pump- get that going this week.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/59/l_f5097792c1284f29965666404fd64f16.jpg

[Clinical]

Looking good, can't wait to see finished product!

[85XR7Project]

So if I had to guess you have a T56 trans and a Ford 8.8 rear? That is a seriously interesting build. I was psyched to find this.

[Drifte]

thats awesome the stock lines met up for you. If your running a stock maf I have a nearly brand new K&N air filter for one. If you find you need any wires/clips/connectors just let me know too.

[TbTalon94]

We should have your o2housing/downpipe finished this week, that should really brighten up that engine bay ;)

Keep up the good work Dustin.

[DustinsDuster]

So if I had to guess you have a T56 trans and a Ford 8.8 rear? That is a seriously interesting build. I was psyched to find this.

sitting under my tool bench right now. the 8.8 is a passenger car unit with disc brakes and the desired 5x4.5" lug pattern- it will need to be narrowed. the T56 is is from a 97 Camaro with around 90k on it. id like to get those under the truck next year- we'll see.

[85XR7Project]

Is it a trak-loc 8.8? If its from anything but a Mustang GT in a bunch of cases its a peg legger. Also if its an Exploder 8.8 the diff is different on the inside.

[DustinsDuster]

Is it a trak-loc 8.8? If its from anything but a Mustang GT in a bunch of cases its a peg legger. Also if its an Exploder 8.8 the diff is different on the inside.

passcar= grand marquis. i got the rear and complete roller 5.0L for $120, so i couldnt say no. not sure on which differential i will end up with, but the plan has always been to narrow it and build it up- i've decided on 4.56 gears for it.

[DustinsDuster]

this showed up today. little bit psyched.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/49/l_3f5b0e0824004046bb19cf3b57c17db5.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/12/l_7b8338036ef04e148d9ecb5506c6b1d0.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/47/l_31ba00f313a84c21b906d26868952fcb.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/35/l_ac15524cfb104e50bf12064f52c025f0.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/43/l_14bca7136f23470b81b3bad91ef038b8.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/33/l_2bc265ff32cf4f829b119f95cd77fec1.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/36/l_d3aa2d6dfc374beca15521e942c80cdd.jpg

[FiFdYnUtZ]

sick!

[Ricky]

6 puck.. after the 500 mile break in... launch it a few times! it helps a lot lol

[Drifte]

I think thats a one time deal Eric. Not normally what ya need to do. What clutch company had what you needed? Or is the pressure plate not done?

[DustinsDuster]

clutch disc is a custom peice- cant remember the manufacturer, theres a small sticker on it. the whole shebang uses a stock DSM clutch fork, AWD flywheel, pressure plate and starter, and a slave cylinder from a toyota R154 application. not sure what clutch master cylinder i have to use yet, but im going to try and go with some easy to find (read: CHEAP) unit and hope i can get it to work.

[drfast4ward]

There is no break in on a 4 or 6 puck....

[Drifte]

Clutch manufacturers suggest 500mile break in none the less.

[TbTalon94]

That's just to cover their ass. Just because it's a puck disc doesn't mean it doesn't need broken in. It all depends on the friction surfaces.

[AutoMods]

I see a few parts you could use. Pressure plate, larger j-pipe, some couplers, injecor o-rings. If upgrading, FPR kit, walbro pump, injectors. Everthing you need should be in stock.

[TbTalon94]

I have an ACT 2600 pressure plate, and a nice extremepsi/slowboy racing stainless J-pipe. Both sitting around Dustin.

[Drifte]

nobody likes a sale thief.

[DustinsDuster]

the J pipe has to be cut, rotated and re-welded, so i'll probably pass on the stainless one Trevor, unless you can cut me a killer deal comprable to the 2" one im getting from IE.

[TbTalon94]

Shoot me an offer, and i'll probably take it. That shit aint doing anything else for me.

[Ricky]

nobody likes a sale thief.

LOL

[AutoMods]

The coupler you need:
http://importevolution.com/product_info ... ts_id=4468 (http://importevolution.com/product_info.php?products_id=4468)

This will run a DSM flywheel I assume, but the fwd or AWD?

[DustinsDuster]

bellhousing is built around the AWD flywheel. will need one of those as well...

[Drifte]

Hmm, seems about time to share progress pics with the rest of the world!

Keep it up, I may be free this weekend also.

[DustinsDuster]

it was about time, so heres a couple:

was able to sandwich the oil cooler between the intercooler and radiator. hope i get enough air flow through it to cool the engine...
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/66/l_1db203f213584af580db5724be9cd4d5.jpg

intake side with modified J pipe
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/55/l_76b2c03df9b24ab98fd081420ff6e7fe.jpg

1Gb throttlebody(thanks Colton) and 2g elbow(thanks Trevor)
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/23/l_61d70aac08714c35a31be22be9921d17.jpg

One Piece at a Time
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/27/l_ac89ab61a1694df389d065a934ef5a0e.jpg

[Drifte]

did you need any wiring for that TB, I cut some off for you and then left it on my tool box. And what coupler did end up working for the 2g elbow best? My vote was on the 2.25"er

[DustinsDuster]

as far as i can tell, i think the 2.5 will work, but it it leaks i'll hit you up. did you guys get any couplers back in? i still need a 2x2.5 45 coupler.

and i dont need any of the wiring- i'll be able to scrounge them off my spare cobbled harness. although, if you wanted to make some money, you could strip the harness off your parts car, clone it to mine once its done, and then sell it on one of the RWD4G sites. uncut stock harnesses usually go for $100-$150; i bet if you had one ready to go for RWD, you could get $200+ for it...

[sparkles]

Looking good. What's the ETA on it moving under it's own power?

[TbTalon94]

Starting to come together Dustin. Hopefully you can get it runnin soon then bring her down to the shop and we'll weld up the exhaust.

[DustinsDuster]

id like to be driving it this winter, but we'll just have to see. still have most of the wiring to do.

[Drifte]

Im not sure which connection you need. The Diagnostic plug you were referring to. If I can find it you can have it though.

[DustinsDuster]

you know, the plug you pull diagnostic codes from? isnt it in the kick panel on the drivers side?

[Drifte]

Oh the OBD1 port. Gotcha, not sure what all is involved in pulling that sucker out. I'll take a look though.

[DustinsDuster]

few updates- got my throttle cable sorted out- welded the J-pipe, getting ideas on how to run the coolant lines through the turbo:

[Drifte]

those are the coolant lines I just weld off and never use. I like the an braided stuff though, looks nice. looks awfully close to done.

[Scott]

Zip Ties and duck tape!!!

[DustinsDuster]

those are the coolant lines I just weld off and never use. I like the an braided stuff though, looks nice. looks awfully close to done.

think you could hook me up with a hollow banjo bolt for the coolant line to the turbo? cant seem to find the one i need...

[DustinsDuster]

Zip Ties and duck tape!!!

yeah- but i want to drive this thing all year-round; so i'll have to find some all-weather zipties and 0-degree duct tape...

[Scott]

make it happen!!! you need to make a small air/water intercooler so you can just put a bunch of snow in it during the winter!!

[Drifte]

I have that banjo on the parts car. I need to park that thing down town so people can pick their parts off of it and give me beers. Im in farifax now and its in swisher.

[DustinsDuster]

I have that banjo on the parts car. I need to park that thing down town so people can pick their parts off of it and give me beers. Im in farifax now and its in swisher.

could you get your hands on it this week sometime? if you hook me up with the bolt, i'll pay your way into the Afterdarks show this weekend....

[Drifte]

haha no cops no stops. Not really my jams, but I will attempt to get your part in due time.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

updates? anything? more pictures? SOMETHING? This is my kind of build!

[DustinsDuster]

yeah, i cut and labeled every wire off of the plugs to basically make a big pigtail connector of every plug that goes on the engine. this way, the wires wont be all tangled up, and it'll be easier to shorten and lengthen specific wires. i also have a spare cobbled harness, so i can lengthen all the wires i need to with the same color wires. i have pics, i'll upload them soon.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

:sleep:


should have looked at this when I was at your place the other day I guess... LOL

[DustinsDuster]

i was going to offer- but i knew you had Skye in the car waiting for you- some other time though.

[Clinical]

Any updates on this thing?
I can't wait to see the finished product

[McKeever]

How's the truck coming? Anything new?

[DustinsDuster]

i pulled the timing cover back off the engine to patch the opening for the motor mount that i hacked off. i had it looking good, getting smooth, and the damn thing cracked on me! i was pissed, but i got some strong Epoxy, and hopefully this stuff will work better.

i'm just about ready to get the fuel pump mounted and wired. i was trying to decide on what kind of filter to run with it, and i really dont think im gonna run an AN one, at least not with this setup. i think i might just go get stock S10/Blazer one, and get some unions to keep it simple. i also got the FPR kit from IE, and have a pretty good idea how im going to mount it all; although its looking like im not gonna be able to run the coil pack in the stock place like i wanted(fuel lines will run into the coil), but i should be able to just mount it to the top of the intake.

with the rail mounted, i should really be able to dive into the wiring and hopefully get that done. i really wanted to add circuits through the stock fusebox, but its looking kinda tough to find the wire connectors i need. im gonna shoot out to K's acres tomorrow and see if i can find a fusebox that i can easily cut out to scavenge the wire ends. i finished cannibalizing the spare harness i had for the color-matched wires i'll need.

i've been slacking a lot, working stuff for the Jimmy, but on the plus side, i have the new fenders and hood painted(just rattlecan for now so they'll look somewhat presentable) as well as a brand new grille for it. really, to be honest, im getting so psyched to work on my Duster, i just want to get the damn truck running so i can work on it!

[Drifte]

Good progress. I've been really busy it seems to but sometime I hope to make it out so we can go over some of the fuel lines and what not.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

MOAR

[DustinsDuster]

couple pics:

wiring looks worse than it is- still waiting to mount the fuel rail until i can find the stock connection for the other side of it:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs416.snc3/25071_743373576400_16915156_43051031_1869882_n.jpg

my quest for a smoother timing cover. i will have to cut another hole in it for the T-stat fitting to poke thru- but at least now there isnt a big open hole where the unused motor mount would sit in:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs416.snc3/25071_743373581390_16915156_43051032_7072485_n.jpg


fuelpump and filter. kindof a jank setup at the moment- eventually id like get another sending unit and build some kind of in-tank setup:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs416.snc3/25071_743373586380_16915156_43051033_4667472_n.jpg

the Starion fusebox i got and scavenged the wiring from to add circuits to my stock truck fusebox. i took a pic of the bex because of the neat switch in it. im not totally sure, but i think its function was to bridge a circuit to another fused circuit if the fuse blew and you didnt have another for it. anyone else ever see something like this?:
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs416.snc3/25071_743373601350_16915156_43051034_3671964_n.jpg

the stock truck fusebox. you can see all the open slots to add circuits for the main relay, ECU, electric fan, and fuel pump:
http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs416.snc3/25071_743373611330_16915156_43051035_1790075_n.jpg

[n8kerns]

=o I like that timing belt cover.

[Luminatorz34]

oh cmon man, any updates???

[Clinical]

Seriously, come on. You're killin us

[Luminatorz34]

lol just as i ask for an update he does it on facebook

[DustinsDuster]

ive got pics, i'll try to get an update together tomorrow. if i get off work early enough, i might be going to pick up my Explorer 8.8!

[85XR7Project]

ive got pics, i'll try to get an update together tomorrow. if i get off work early enough, i might be going to pick up my Explorer 8.8!

Did it end up being all that different? I remember mentioning it might be.

[DustinsDuster]

its late, but here's a little update. need a couple more fittings to finish up my fuel system, and a gauge would be nice, but other than that, it should be sorted out. anyone know where i should get a vaccum source for the regulator? can i take one of the lines off the throttle body?

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs006.ash2/33644_798927760370_16915156_44940042_5857775_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs156.snc4/37122_798019176180_16915156_44916485_4605935_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs752.snc4/65224_798019330870_16915156_44916490_5695735_n.jpg

also, i got a pair of 2WD toyota pickup hubs and have started swapping them over to my truck. the caliper bracket is off center, but i think grinding about an 1/8th inch off of it should line things up.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs732.snc4/65224_798019335860_16915156_44916491_1420189_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs732.snc4/65224_798019340850_16915156_44916492_7912581_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs732.snc4/65224_798019340850_16915156_44916492_7912581_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs732.snc4/65224_798019355820_16915156_44916495_7044866_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs734.snc4/65468_798019455620_16915156_44916498_4886099_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs754.snc4/65468_798019460610_16915156_44916499_5801547_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs359.snc4/44209_798927830230_16915156_44940044_3083256_n.jpg


i also managed to hunt down an 8.8 Ford rear from a '98 Explorer. it has 4.10 gears and disc brakes; but one of the calipers seems to be frozen up. i spun the yoke, and only the one wheel spun either way- not sure if its an open rear, or if it was limited slip, and now its blown. i planned on swapping the gears anyway, but might call the yard, and see if they'll do anything about it. even if they wont, i got the rear for $175 pulled, so as long as nothing else is wrong with it, still wouldnt be too bad of a deal.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs359.snc4/44209_798927825240_16915156_44940043_206431_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs179.ash2/44209_798927835220_16915156_44940045_1920092_n.jpg

believe it or not, i've actually made a little progress on the wiring, and have a pretty good idea on how i'm going to power and run certain things. to do away with the multiple hot wires spliced together in the harness, i got a 8 circuit terminal with a jumper on one side, so i can run a single hot wire into it, and run all the smaller wires off of it. should be a lot cleaner setup than the original. i'll also be using the car's fused blockoff the side post of the battery to get power to my ECU, MPI relay, fuel pump, etc.i still debating it, but i might run the wires into the fuse block just to keep it neat and uniform, even though it'll be adding a fuse into an already fused circuit. more to come on that.

i'm also trying to figure out a way to plumb the turbo into the coolant lines and have the flow going the correct way without it looking like complete garbage. i'd really like to keep all that; if nothing else, to warm my truck up faster for those cold winter mornings...

thats it for now; but i've actually been working on this more, so hopefully i'll have more updates in less time. stay tune!

[Drifte]

^ its amazing how fast a turbo vehicle can pump out heat in the winter. Vacuum sources are plentiful on that motor (just pick one), and if you need a gauge theirs many styles in stock here at work.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k27/drifte/Talon_100_fpr.jpg
wish I could remember where i routed that vacuum line...when I think of it I'll let ya know.

[TbTalon94]

There should be a spot on the intake manifold for it. Kind of tucked under the front.

[DustinsDuster]

a friend of mine brought this over today. hard bed cover off a '95 S10 that didnt sell at the swapmeet. i knew the bodylines were not similar at all, but we tossed it on my truck anyway. it fit surprisingly well, and for $100, i couldnt say no. if nothing else, i could probably turn around and flip it; but i doubt i will. it even matches my body color!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs776.snc4/67639_803590680840_16915156_45059572_263484_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs371.ash2/64985_803590635930_16915156_45059569_5923494_n.jpg

[sparkles]

Put a park bench on the back of that thing, grab a burrito, and start listening to polka music....

[TbTalon94]

Hey that cover is a lot better the cardboard and plywood!

[DustinsDuster]

it's been a while; too long, really. i've actually been getting some stuff done here and there and decided it was about time to update the thread, so here goes.

i smoothed the hole in the timing cover that the motor mount used to go through and cut a new hole just the shape of the t-stat fitting. also ran some thick gauge wire along the edge to make a new seal for the cover.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs151.ash2/40876_804110384350_16915156_45074162_551288_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs922.snc4/73577_804110524070_16915156_45074167_22958_n.jpg

also found a decent priced coil on plug setup that'll probably go on after the truck is running.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs381.ash2/65983_804110414290_16915156_45074164_6502153_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs902.snc4/71521_804110444230_16915156_45074165_1034719_n.jpg


i think i'm finally getting into the homestretch on my wiring. everything is pretty well buttoned up, now i'm just testing to make sure it all works correctly. it's looking like i'll have to find a better ground for the harness as i'm getting a weak signal at the hot points of the harness. theres a few little bugs to work out yet, but once everything is tested well, i believe the biggest battle will be over.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs559.ash2/148130_821911635500_16915156_45472375_6047038_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs975.snc4/76855_821911715340_16915156_45472377_2577277_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1163.snc4/150554_821911755260_16915156_45472379_1670373_n.jp g

i found this wire taped up in truck's harness coming off the column. it's tied into the wire that used to power the truck's coil(switched hot). my thinking is that because my truck is such a low option model(doesnt even have a lighter), that this wire might have been plugged into the fuse block on models with more options. so i took a wire/connector i scavenged from a junkyard car, and voila; fused switched circuits to hook up to whatever i need. i also spliced into the same wire to turn the coil/MPI/ecu on and off. coincidentally, i also utilized the DSM's fuse block off the battery to get a fused constant hot to the ECU/MPI, so i took another heavy wire off of it into the fuseblock as well to have some fused constant hots for whatever i want:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs054.snc6/168430_836808976110_16915156_45827279_6378128_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1365.snc4/163697_836809085890_16915156_45827286_2905021_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs752.ash1/164366_836809200660_16915156_45827291_6962115_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs045.snc6/167540_836809245570_16915156_45827293_6555298_n.jp g


i managed to finish the 5-lug swap with Toyota hubs on the front of the truck
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1163.snc4/150554_821911755260_16915156_45472379_1670373_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs822.snc4/68239_824125553790_16915156_45522570_1951283_n.jpg

winter rims. the plan is to put studded tires all way round on it in the winter
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs009.snc4/33827_825533751750_16915156_45548934_4815289_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1197.snc4/154990_825533781690_16915156_45548935_6831630_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1336.snc4/162878_825533791670_16915156_45548936_2209847_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs821.snc4/68176_828075223620_16915156_45599735_5226724_n.jpg

i never took pics of how i had to have the fitting for the t-stat housing modified to clear the waterpump pulley.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs775.ash1/166501_836808771520_16915156_45827266_4375081_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs057.snc6/168722_836808816430_16915156_45827269_4881779_n.jp g

i picked up a 4G37 t-stat housing that has the hose outlet coming out straight instead of at an angle. also managed to find a hose that would fit with some mild trimming:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1355.snc4/162758_836808866330_16915156_45827272_1648762_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs071.snc6/168143_836808906250_16915156_45827275_3559289_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs056.snc6/168598_837318200620_16915156_45839862_6202969_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs773.ash1/166376_837318265490_16915156_45839864_153715_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs734.ash1/162875_837318375270_16915156_45839868_8282157_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs059.snc6/168933_837318450120_16915156_45839869_7356444_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs744.ash1/163672_837318310400_16915156_45839865_1784613_n.jp g


i'll try to keep this a bit more updated, but everyone knows how that goes. off the top of my head, a small list of things left to do: bleed brakes, finish wiring in the fuel pump, bolt the turbo up with gaskets, hook up turbo oil drain, bolt up TB with gaskets, loom and tape up the wiring, reinstall the dash, put the grille/bumper back on, get an electric fan and wire that up, and probably handful of other things i can't think of right now.

[AutoMods]

good work, keep chugging away at it.

i hear of a lot of people working out bugs/problems on cop setups and many of them don't make enough power to even need them so ya i'd hold off on that until you need to do it

[DustinsDuster]

good work, keep chugging away at it.

i hear of a lot of people working out bugs/problems on cop setups and many of them don't make enough power to even need them so ya i'd hold off on that until you need to do it

pretty much the only reason on i want the COP setup is to help un-clutter the engine a bit. as it is, i just have the coil bolted to the top of the intake manifold, and i dont like it much. like i said, after its running, i'll probably try to work out getting it on when the engine and trans come back out to get the 6 speed in.

[TbTalon94]

Hey Hey that radiator hose fits great! I knew that would be a better option then to have some pie-cut aluminum pieces in there!

Coming along good Dustin, i can't wait to see/hear this thing driving around.

[DustinsDuster]

small update with a couple pics. i think(or hope!) the wiring is all wrapped up, seems to test right, so i crossed my fingers and wrapped the harness(quite a chore with crossed fingers). also got my Derale fan mounted and wired up as well. the fan was just about as big as i could possibly fit with the stock radiator; i actually had to squeeze the fan body a bit to fit it in the radiator. making a shroud should be pretty easy with the threaded tabs on the radiator. i also installed a thermostatic switch on the fan.

the fuel system is also finished up now; i managed to find a 6an fitting with a 3/8" hose barb on one end to connect to the stock truck feed line, and the stock return line. hopefully track tech's don't throw a fit about my fuel lines being run through my brake lines and over my coolant bypass line to keep it up high off my alternator.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/184724_852875319030_16915156_46137913_3362101_n.jp g

even though many people told me not to worry about coolant lines to the turbo, but i wanted true daily driver reliability, so i deemed it necessary to install it. the one line is from the stock car water pipe, chopped up and the small line was bent up to make it over to the turbo. the other line runs over to the ISC motor on the TB, which then dumps back into Tstat housing. starting to get a little crowded with all the coolant lines and wiring; you can see the thermostatic switch hanging under all the lines on the housing:
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183268_852875393880_16915156_46137917_5552473_n.jp g
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182737_852875458750_16915156_46137919_3259168_n.jp g

showing how tight the fan fit in the radiator. i'm hoping this fan with a shroud with be plenty to keep the truck cool:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/185618_852875503660_16915156_46137921_6246349_n.jp g

[DustinsDuster]

wiring should be all wrapped up, the other MPI is just for testing the harness out:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/182004_852875568530_16915156_46137923_3354794_n.jp g

i LOVE how this looks!
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/184068_852875668330_16915156_46137927_6381759_n.jp g

[Drifte]

Looks like your radiator might be needin' a recore dude. End up firing it up this weekend?

[Scott]

Cant wait to hear this thing run.. Looks good man I hope it all goes well for ya!

[DustinsDuster]

Looks like your radiator might be needin' a recore dude. End up firing it up this weekend?

it's just the stocker; and if it won't keep the truck cool, i'll either run the stock DSM rad(i made sure the IC piping was wide enough to clear) or get a thicker core aftermarket one. i ran into some leaks this weekend, but i actually did get it started tonight! it was rad to hear it run, but the fuelpump is bad; only getting 20-25psi of fuel pressure, so i could barely keep it running with the low fuel pressure. it was fun to listen to the turbo spinning though.




Cant wait to hear this thing run.. Looks good man I hope it all goes well for ya!

come by this weekend. hopefully by then i'll have a new fuel pump and i'll be able to get it up to temp and get the timing set and whatnot.

[AutoMods]

sound like you've had a lot of random issues. now the pump. thats too bad.

i remember when i first started the rx7 after the ls1 swap, that was quite exciting, we recorded it. it was pretty uneventful though.

[DustinsDuster]

yeah, i mean honestly, to anyone else, it probably wouldn't be that big of a deal to see it running. but for me, after it sitting it immobile for so long, walking by it in pieces every day, to see any life come out of it was just so awesome. hopefully in the somewhat near future i'll be able to get a few vids of it actually driving!

[Scott]

Thats awesome dude congrats!! I know the feeling of a never ending project and the even better feeling of it running.. We'll have to have a few beers to celebrate I think

[Ricky]

i showed up just as this hog started running. It sounds sweet with the tiny little exhaust on it. Defently didnt like to idel.

Are you sure its the pump or could it be just an adjustment somewhere? To a DSM guy- what fuel PSI is normal for idel?

[AutoMods]

38psi for 1g's with vacuum not hooked up to the regulator, 42.5 for 2g's

[Drifte]

42.5psi BFP or 38 if its setup to a 1g tune, or I ran 45 on my 1g. Congrats getting it running, maybe I can stop out sometime soon and check it out? Just let me know, and we'll see you soon.

[AutoMods]

timing , boost leaks , o2 sensor operation , idle speed controller are good things to check on a poor idling dsm

[Ricky]

i thought it was 38 or mid 40. we were seeing about 20. first start up we can a gas leak lol....

[DustinsDuster]

fuel pump was good; Eric and i are idiots. the truck moves under its own power!

http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=860483038100

also, what should my oil pressure be in a fresh motor like mine? when we first started it, it shot up to 100psi, then came down to 75psi or so with the fast idle, and after a minutes settled down to about 25psi as the truck warmed up. problem is, after a bit, the idle settled down really low, and although it kept running, the oil pressure was like 15-20psi. that makes me a bit worried, but i almost wonder if that was idling too low or what. for clarification, my timing isnt set yet, so that could have something to do with it. it doesnt drop as low in this vid, and i kinda feel like this is around where the truck should idle (dont have a tach hooked up yet) anyway, vid of the oil pressure:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=860496012100

[Ricky]

I remember staring at it thinking, "this looks adjustable, i wonder if he has messed with it" then i just never thought about it agian lol

[Drifte]

20psi at idle is normal. Do you have a new or rebuilt oil pump? There's an oil relief in the filter housing that can be modified as well. Do you have balance shafts?

[TbTalon94]

Oil pressure is great. It's about perfect actually.

Very awesome to see the truck running! I need to swing by and check it out one of these nights. If you need any help with anything i'm always just a phone call away and glad to help!

[Scott]

I can help you break the transmission, I have some slicks and a bottle of vht so we can go launch that SOB!!!!!!

[DustinsDuster]

It's a brand new oil pump, and i did eliminate the balance shafts. its more that it just seems to keep climbing with RPM, doesnt stop at a certain pressure; thought that was kinda weird.

also, even with the small turbo, i probably shouldnt be seeing much, if any boost when revving, right? i think when i revved it up kinda high, i mightve seen 5psi, but i figured it wouldnt boost at all not being under load.

thanks for the kind words guys, i've been riding on cloud 9 the last few days. hopefully tonight i can get the dash back in and get the gauges all hooked up so i can take it for a little drive!

[Drifte]

Oil pressure sounds all good. Let me know when we can go for a test drive! I can check over a few vacuum lines etc before hand and make sure we arent about to boost it to the moon.

[Domestic Disturbance]

Thats sweet that its running. Manual run off bound!

[AutoMods]

do you have your old oil pump? btw your oil pressure looks normal. normally you won't build boost in neutral unless you really stomp on it hard and fast and get the revs up there quick. however if the motor is missing or stumbling a bit, maybe it could cause some load when flooring it, thus building some boost. or perhaps really rich or retarded timing would cause some building of boost

[Ricky]

went for a ride last night. Sounds sweet and was fun. I watched the boost gauge and saw 30+ psi... so we stoped lol. I think dustin has that problem fixed now.

[Drifte]

I think he's got it. Fun little truck, with a little exhaust and lots of luck with the tranny it should be good for a long time! I dont know if it was spinning or what but recall on the tach shows 7-7200RPM peak off the rev limiter. Never fuel cut at 30lbs. No idea why not.

[DustinsDuster]

pretty sure that 7200 only happened once and on accident. and i dunno, it sure fuels like its hitting fuel cut or something up that high; but you know a lot more about it than me. in any case, i'm gonna get the water temp gauge in it and get the wastegate going right and see how it acts then. also readjusted the clutch cable. its VERY hard to press, but i can feel it actually engage and disengage now.

after all this i realized that with the vacuum line on the wrong port on the wastegate, it was just venting to the atmosphere- meaning it was that peppy with a boost leak. 'course, i suppose the 30+lbs of boost i was running probably more than made up for it!

[Drifte]

BTW, my vote for exhaust is a stack out back witha flapper on it. But I suppose you have that bed cover so that idea wont work. Just a $20 glass pack and a turbo dsm sounds real good.

[Scott]

I vote for fender exit!!!!!

[DustinsDuster]

so a lot has happened; i'll try to paraphrase most of it. got the vaccum line on the right port and the boost problem was fixed. it was a lot easier to handle, but still had no problems breaking the one back tire loose when it really got into boost. i really need my 8.8 rear, limited slip, and decent tires. more on that later.

i learned a few things the hard way.

double, triple, even quadrouple check everything is tight while the engine is out and you can get to everything. i found this out with a few different leaks, the worst of which was from the coolant bypass hose on the back of the head. i managed to get it snug by cutting the head off an old wrench, snaking down onto the hose fitting, and getting a pry bar down against it to pry against the head. bandaid at best, but its been holding for now.

also, pay very close attention to all electrical connections. they lead wire to my starter had a bar spot rubbed through it and it grounded against the body of the started when i bolted it up. when i connected the negative cable on the battery, i burnt up everything that could ground the engine to the rest of the truck. the small ground wire burnt up, no big deal. the clutch cable fried inside the housing. kindof a big deal, but was able to get a replacement, all good. but the bad one was my braided oil pressure line. bad because it burnt the liner up inside the housing, and i couldnt tell by looking at it. started the truck and spewed 3-4 quarts of oil all over my engine bay and garage floor. awesome.

another odd issue is cooling. instead of running hot, i cant get the damn thing to run at operating tempreture. sitting idling in my driveway, i've never seen it get over 160. driving down the highway it drops to 145-150. now that it's been a little warmer, it's warmed up a little, but i have still yet to see it even reach 180- (its got a 185 thermostat). i have seen the fan kick on every now and then, and the sending unit is in line with the bypass from the back of the head, so thats telling me the engine is getting to 170-175 sometimes. when the motor's back out, i'm going to probably drill and tap another hole in the t-stat housing to get a better reading of coolant temp. if it still reads low then, i can only assume all the changes to the cooling system are effecting the cooling this much, i'm assuming coolant draining from both sides of the head instead of just one is helping a lot more coolant flow through, and since the heater core is fed before the t-stat, that enough coolant is flowing through there that the t-stat is barely opening at all. this makes sense as i can get VERY hot air blowing in the cabin with less than 140 water temp readings. i'm going to see how this works in the summer- if it runs 185-200 in the summer, i'll address it in the fall when it's an issue again. worst case scenario, i'll figure out a way to feed the heater core AFTER the Tstat forcing it to open before the heater core sees any coolant flow.

i also managed to break my first transmission already- probably with under 20 street miles on it too. Trevor was taking the truck to Lisbon to weld up the exhaust on it when the truck seemed to pop out of gear coming down a hill. although the shifter seemed to go into any gear you tried to put it into, the truck seemed to be locked in 5th while running. we managed to hobble it home in 5th, and then 4th, and i swapped out the trans to the spare truck trans i bought years back. this trans seems a lot more solid going into gears, but i can tell it's already unhappy dealing with the power and RPM.

i'm also pretty sure i had a couple injectors go bad on me- the truck was acting like it was starving for fuel at most any rpm and load, and than intermittenly coming back to power. i have a set of 720cc injectors, but with no way to control them, i didnt want to put them in. trevor came through by lending me his stock Evo injectors and MAS. the upside to this is it fixed the hesitation problem, but the combination of the bigger injectors and the different MAS make the truck run pretty bad as it sits. which leads to the next thing.

i've pretty much decided that i'm going to go with either DSMLink V3, or V3 lite. it pretty much depends on how cheap i can find a GM MAF and translator. thing is, if the truck's going to be down for a week or two getting the ECU converted to Eprom, i think i'll probably just pull the engine and trans back out and get started on the 6 speed/8.8 swap. i have just about everything i need for it- im waiting to hear back from a guy on ebay who rebuilds stock Trac-Lok differentials with extra clutches and sells them on ebay to order for the application its going into. other than that, i need a slave cylinder and a AN line to run from the master cylinder and slave cylinder to make plumbing super easy. an added plus; aparently the spring width is the same on both trucks, so i'll just have to drill the shock plates for the bigger axle tubes and it should be good to go. after that i can get to ordering a driveshaft and getting it on the road.

it sucks to tear it back apart after i just got it together- but really, driving it around untuned it just bumming me out knowing how much better it could be running. i'll probably drive it around a bit more this week, but chances are i'll probably start pulling it back apart by the end of the week. the goal is to have it together and ready to rock for the shoot out in June, and the sooner i get to work on getting this stuff in, the more time i'll have to address any issues, and to tune as well. getting this stuff in will also get me to a great stopping point on the truck, and i can get going on one of my many other projects.

i dont have many pictures of it now, but i do have a little video of it going for a spin. enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRIdlP4AXiU

[85XR7Project]

Thats kinda a shitter but as we all know it can never go perfect without a few teething problems. Glad to hear that its getting newer better stuff in it, should make it even more badass. Maybe sometime I will actually drag my ass out to some gathering and see this little thing.

[Deimos]

I thought of you today when I was at menards and saw a guy with a white s10 with a mini truck militia sticker park next to me

[Xboosted23X]

Brent might have my old gm maf and translator. Id check with him.

[DustinsDuster]

Brent might have my old gm maf and translator. Id check with him.

saw that over on DS- i'll shoot him a PM. Derek(TRBOWHT) thinks he might still have his as well.

[AutoMods]

dsmlink can do the translating for you now, you don't need to buy a seperate translator just the gm mas.

The dsmlink lite cost is $355 shipped. I would just go with lite http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/prodcompare . instead of going with the gm maf, i would just use the evo mas that you already have. otherwise go speed density and get rid of the mas altogether. speed density if preferred over the gm mas.


Cost for full is $455. You can always upgrade to full later on for $125

We have 3g lifters in stock. I think they are $80 but i'm not in the office right now so i could be wrong.

[skipdownstairs]

Go with the speed density setup its well worth it in the long run!! looks cool Dustin I would like to see it sometime!!

[DustinsDuster]

Go with the speed density setup its well worth it in the long run!! looks cool Dustin I would like to see it sometime!!

for the money at the moment, i decided just to stick with the EVO MAF. i think it'll be fine for what i have, and i can always upgrade down the road. i promise a lot more pics and vids when its back together and running better.

[slo4cyl]

I have a dsmlink v2 if you want to conisider that.

[NewSpeedSteed]

I don't know if you'd want it but if you find a 8.8 rear end I have my stock 8.8 axles and trac-loc diff. I know there stock and only 28 spline axles but they have like 10-12k miles on em before I upgraded to 31 spline mosers and a new diff. There sitting in my basement doing nothing so if you want em in the future lemme know. I also have the stock rotors too... don't know if you'd want them same amount of miles on them.

[DustinsDuster]

I don't know if you'd want it but if you find a 8.8 rear end I have my stock 8.8 axles and trac-loc diff. I know there stock and only 28 spline axles but they have like 10-12k miles on em before I upgraded to 31 spline mosers and a new diff. There sitting in my basement doing nothing so if you want em in the future lemme know. I also have the stock rotors too... don't know if you'd want them same amount of miles on them.

i ended up getting an Explorer rear that has 31 spline axles, and i already ordered a fresh Trak Lok. thanks anyway though.

[DustinsDuster]

so i slacked for the last couple months and havent updated at all. now i dont even know where to start. i'll just start posting pics with captions and people can ask questions if they want.

so, the truck originally had a cable clutch, and the T56 utilizes a hydraulic clutch. my original idea was just to use a 3/8" bolt with a few nuts to connect the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder, but now that the interior is all gutted, i'm thinking about just welding a 3/4" or 1" piece of barstock right to the clutch pedal to eliminate any chance of flex in the set up. more to come on that.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199700_858339743280_16915156_46222357_161046_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/196776_858339793180_16915156_46222359_896902_n.jpg

the master cylinder mounted. if you look close you can see the divit in the firewall where the hydraulic clutch mounts in turbo diesel trucks.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/189319_858342482790_16915156_46222378_1604691_n.jp g


i loving having a huge open engine bay. motor came out just as you see it. powersteering pump and mount will be coming off
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/246961_10100120741060910_16915156_47006564_6320412 _n.jpg


the big headache. i was hoping i might be able to get away with just pounding the hell out of the trans tunnel, but as you can see, that didnt happen.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/249962_10100120741125780_16915156_47006568_8031380 _n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247003_10100121354282010_16915156_47017067_1696294 _n.jpg

Brent's dummy block helping me square everything up

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247309_10100121354371830_16915156_47017068_5312846 _n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/246788_10100121354436700_16915156_47017069_1523758 _n.jpg


mocking up the trans crossmember. i actually was able to just hack the ends off the crossmember and spin the center section upside down and it lined up pretty well. i havent completely finished up the mount yet, but when i'm done i should be able to adjust the driveshaft angle just with shims under the mount

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/251163_10100121354501570_16915156_47017070_7588752 _n.jpg


new parts:

Innovate wideband and a small single pod. probably mount it right on the steering column cover to keep it front and center.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/249925_10100121354711150_16915156_47017074_370737_ n.jpg

wanted to get rid of the jank exhaust connection i threw together to make it to Rob's memorial in the truck...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/253801_10100121354766040_16915156_47017075_3307157 _n.jpg

now it looks like this(thanks Scotty):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/283271_10100218633309060_16915156_47431067_4410257 _n.jpg


picked up this silver-faced tach for cheap at the swapmeet. its not as nice as my other tach, but it has a shift light and matches my other gauges, so it'll do for now
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/252915_10100121354810950_16915156_47017077_6242208 _n.jpg

also picked these up at the swap meet. pair of used Weld Pro-Stars, 15x8 with 4.5" of backspacing. probably throw some kind of cheap sticky tires on them and see what happens
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/251788_10100121354860850_16915156_47017078_3358861 _n.jpg


Stage 2 BC cams and 3g lifters which will probably go in just because everythings apart already
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247408_10100121354985600_16915156_47017081_4825591 _n.jpg


Ford Explorer 8.8 rear end. found a fresh built stock limited slip on ebay for under $200 shipped. the rear aleady had 4.10 gears, so i decided to keep the stock gearing and throw it together(well, Kyle Perry did it with me, as i have never messed around with differentials before. thanks Kyle!). i put all new brakes on it, and think i might be able to loop the stock e-brake cable around the 8.8's lever and maybe make it work. more to come on that:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253631_10100121354900770_16915156_47017079_8029300 _n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/263522_10100218633014650_16915156_47431060_1778054 _n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/269410_10100218633119440_16915156_47431061_7256481 _n.jpg

the 8.8 has 3 1/4" axle tubes, so i had new u-bolts bent up and ovaled out the holes in the stock shock plate. truck will ride on 3" lowering blocks in the rear
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282042_10100218633219240_16915156_47431064_8138190 _n.jpg


one more shot of the inside. the plan is the weld a strip of sheet metal between the two halfs of the tunnel to widen it, and then weld it back in.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/261829_10100218632889900_16915156_47431054_1723052 _n.jpg

[DustinsDuster]

new shoes:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/261500_10100218623947820_16915156_47430797_2074455 _n.jpg

swapped to manual steering. got the brake booster out so i can cut out the socket for the clutch cable and smooth it over. also might weld in a plate to brace the clutch master cylinder
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268015_10100218632944790_16915156_47431055_2132096 _n.jpg

well, thats where i'm sitting right now- i'll try and keep things more updated and hopefully get the thing on the road soon!

[AutoMods]

nice job,looks like a lot of work. what broke on your truck at robs memorial? i forgot

[TbTalon94]

His radiator cap was leaking, you should know about that.

Also sorry I wasn't able to weld that downpipe for you. We've been really busy with weddings, vacations, and building manifolds.

[Drifte]

labor intensive, worth it in the end. Cant wait for my next ride.

[probegt]

cant wait to see this thing hit the streets

[tylers88]

so the welds will be for the track i'm guessing? what are you going to run on the Kumhos, I see you got 245/50s and 215/55s

[DustinsDuster]

i got Starquest wheels for it; ended up having to hunt down a pair of SHP(Sport Handling Package) 8" wide front rims to run on the rear because they have more offset. new tires are mounted, but i dont have pics of the truck with them yet. here's one of the truck on the ground with the 7" rims front and rear:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/270741_10100220701798790_16915156_47456532_7749999 _n.jpg

[DustinsDuster]

couple more pics:

theres only a dummy block in it, but im pretty sure it'll have to come down some more in the front:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281918_10100234142044430_16915156_47691652_819578_ n.jpg

the back is pretty damn low:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/282481_10100234142124270_16915156_47691655_4447145 _n.jpg

trans tucks pretty high up into the cab. might have to make the tunnel a little taller
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/283523_10100234142453610_16915156_47691672_1838864 _n.jpg

you can kindof see where i built up the crossmember for the trans mount:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/226185_10100234142518480_16915156_47691674_7041865 _n.jpg

patched in where the old clutch cable used to run through the firewall, and put a brace plate in where the clutch master cylinder will bolt up.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284726_10100234142588340_16915156_47691678_3970275 _n.jpg

center of the flywheel bored out to allow the trans' imput shaft to pass through it. pilot bearing sits in the crankshaft.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/263214_10100234142698120_16915156_47691682_7634639 _n.jpg



and now i'm looking for opinions. i hunted down the pair of SHP 16x8's with more backspacing, but they still stick out of my wheel wells an inch or so. in the end id like to have the rear narrowed 2-2.5" on both sides to bring the wheels in the wells better, but my question is about the front wheels. on the driverside, i have the standard 16x7 front rim with the 215 tire mounted up. it sits slightly inside the wheel well. on the pass side, i have one of the rear 16x8 wheels with just an old 215 tire mounted. this one sits flush with the fender if not slightly out. im wondering if you guys think i should run the 16x7's or 16x'8s in the front. right now the 16x8's might look better, but down the road, it would look stupid if the fronts sat out noticably wider than the rears. opinions?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/283999_10100234142204110_16915156_47691660_531103_ n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198623_10100234142293930_16915156_47691663_6829435 _n.jpg

[AutoMods]

drivers front looks better imo. you'll like the t56, its a brute. I've only missed one shift and very well could've been my fault.

open up that 3rd bay and lets see pics of the duster. don't know if i've ever seen it. you messed with that back before I was even on iaf much

[DustinsDuster]

drivers front looks better imo. you'll like the t56, its a brute. I've only missed one shift and very well could've been my fault.

open up that 3rd bay and lets see pics of the duster. don't know if i've ever seen it. you messed with that back before I was even on iaf much

older thread with some pics:
http://iowaautoforums.com/showthread.php?11900-1972-Plymouth-Duster

[JustinS]

Damn, the t56 is a huge bitch

[DustinsDuster]

been meaning to update this. i'm about ready to drop the engine and trans in, and figured i would post up some pics before then. same drill as a few months ago; a few pics, a little description, yada yada.

the clutch pedal setup. welded a piece of 1" bar stock to the pedal, and drilled/tapped a hole for a bolt on the end. dont see this flexing at all. pedal seems to have around 2-3" of travel. awesome.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/301408_10100240032130650_16915156_47792779_801670_ n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/298343_10100240032240430_16915156_47792781_2482167 _n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/299872_10100240032300310_16915156_47792783_3472464 _n.jpg


the little bracket i bent up for my adjustable proportioning valve. in hindsight, i probably shouldve mounted this in the engine bay to get it getting frozen up with road grime. next time around.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/291925_10100240032380150_16915156_47792784_1673309 _n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/295708_10100240032430050_16915156_47792785_4460057 _n.jpg


all bolted up:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/299766_10100240032474960_16915156_47792786_252934_ n.jpg

its partly the angle of the pic, but the clutch master cylinder is a little crooked. i dont think it'll affect anything really, so i left it.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185583_10100240032634640_16915156_47792789_3951189 _n.jpg


cam and lifter swap. cams are BC 272's, with 3g lifters:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/419839_10100563002919600_16915156_49468917_1936975 575_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/420715_10100563003039360_16915156_49468918_1505812 51_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/417124_10100563003303830_16915156_49468922_1528629 5_n.jpg


i never looked up the numbers on my turbo, just assumed it was a small 16g. turns out its an Evo III 16g. truck might be a little quicker than i was expecting if i can get it tuned well and actually get it to hook:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/417371_10100563003114210_16915156_49468920_7096500 81_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/429839_10100563003238960_16915156_49468921_1482388 37_n.jpg

Keger's old 720cc injectors going in. picked up Brent's old DSMLink V2, finally be able to use these:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/422042_10100563003383670_16915156_49468923_2132722 873_n.jpg

i decided to make the top of the radiator support removable to make it easier to get the engine and trans in together. also, swapped to manual steering:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/421145_10100563005344740_16915156_49468952_2630471 26_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/420050_10100563003503430_16915156_49468925_3815870 73_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/419315_10100563003628180_16915156_49468926_1864709 295_n.jpg

and the time consumer. the trans tunnel is welded in and sealed. i globbed on the seam sealer to make sure it would seal well, so thats what youre seeing, not sloppy stick weld looking stuff:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/427630_10100563003703030_16915156_49468927_5157610 05_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/419763_10100563003847740_16915156_49468928_5880884 46_n.jpg

got my driveshaft made up. looks pretty long, and thats with a standard cab, short box and engine in the stock location. it'd prob look crazy on a long bed extended cab with the engine moved forward 3"

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/431444_10100563004007420_16915156_49468933_7795305 82_n.jpg

Trevor convinced me these were cheap insurance; especially since the cams were out:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/427022_10100563004611210_16915156_49468942_1499719 693_n.jpg

[DustinsDuster]

they got a decently clean D50 in the local yard, so i went and picked up the bed cheap. much less work than the one i had:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/429668_10100563004840750_16915156_49468944_1569662 950_n.jpg

not happy to have this to deal with this:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/431210_10100563004980470_16915156_49468946_3294956 42_n.jpg


cant wait to get all this stuff together and in the truck!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/418350_10100563005234960_16915156_49468950_1023646 877_n.jpg

[AutoMods]

I like the new bed. should be fun to see it running again

[Clinical]

can't wait.. you know I'm a total sucker for this build!!

I honestly just love the idea of a 4g63 with a good manual trans behind it. I know the stock dsm 5spd transmissions can hold a lot of power but you still can't hit gears with them like you can with transmissions like a t56 or you'll tear it up. Should be a whole new ride this year!! Should take it to a midnight mania or midnight mayhem at CFR/Cordova and surprise some people.

[DustinsDuster]

ive been meaning to update this, but just been blowing it off. truck is actually pretty close to running/driving. engine/trans are in. had to take the driveshaft back out and remove the front yoke because Southwest Speed apparently lets their yokes go out the door with the little cap just floating loose. lot of RTV sealant on the inside and outside, and it should be good to go.

fluids are all full; brakes are bled, and i even got the rear parking brakes to work. got the Innovate wideband and gauge wired up and installed pretty much; gotta put the carpet and other seat in, and i've got an idea of how to trim the stock DSM console to fit well with the Ripper shifter and all.

the biggest pain in the ass turned out to be the clutch pedal. pretty much, i completely underestimated how hard the clutch was going to be to actuate, and completely overestimated the stability of the clutch pedal. pretty much ended up with a flimsy piece of shit that i could bare press down on. my grandpa and i looked at it and brainstormed for a bit, and i decided to do some research and see what i found. there were actually two different Ram50/MM's that came with hydraulic clutches; the 83-85 diesels, and the 91-94 V6/5speed trucks. neither are easy to find at all; and after scowering car-part.com, i found just ONE yard that had a V6/5speed truck. guy told me he wanted $175 shipped for the pedal(it was in PA). i told him i'd see if any other yards called me back and call him the next day. i REALLY couldnt bring myself to spend that much on a 20 year old stock pedal that i was most likely still going to have to fab up some bracing and what not to install it.

i found a plain jane steel universal brake/clutch pedal from Jeg's with frame and all for $60, but decided i should still call the guy back. i told him i just couldn't bring myself to spend that much when it still wouldn't just bolt right in. he asked "well how much were you planning on spending?" i said "i dont know, less than $100 for sure". "how much are they new?" "what, from a dealer? i dont know, i'm sure a couple hundred most likely..." he interrupts me, "yeah, you'd be surprised. they're very rare; hard to find." and he was right. they ARE hard to find. but then, so is someone who's in the market for one. i figure i'll give it a last try- "i understand they're rare, but i just can't bring myself to spend $175 on a 20 year old piece when i could get a brand new universal one for $60 shipped..." i hear him sneer, "good luck getting one of those to work..." "well, even still, i'd be willing to go $80 on it, what i'm willing to spend is all". he declined, and i thanked him for his time. i hung up, called H&W, and had Scott order the Jeg's pedal. few days later, and it was here.

the big issue was that the new pedal came straight down, and i needed it to offset...a lot. there was room for the whole bracket/cage for the pedal under the dash, but the pedal sat around 9-10" left of the brake, and came down over the wheel tub. i thought a bit about it, and managed to get the stock pedal removed without removing the brake/clutch pedal assembly(had some help from a sawzall). i ground all the stuff off the stock pedal until it was just the flat arm. i bent the pedal more to have a 6.5" offset(ballpark) i needed. the next day, my grandpa showed up(i desperately needed another set of hands, and someone who's smarter than me to help). we ended up hacking the pad off the new pedal, and bending the new pedal to match the old one we bent up. i welded it along the entire perimeter, and now it's around 1/2" thick, and doesn't twist or flex at all. best part, the cage/bracket for the pedal serves as a plate to spread the force out, and effectively braced the firewall, and running the clutch master cylinder through the firewall and bolting it to the pedal frame, it focuses the pedal force on the master cylinder and not just the firewall. the pedal had a 6.25:1 ratio already, but with the offset we got another inch of leverage, and it really doesn't take all that much effort to press it; even with the 2600(i think, bought it from Trevor a long while back) pressure plate. happy day.

i'll get pics up tomorrow or Sunday; it's just too late and i'm tired and don't feel like uploading them all tonight. hoping to have it running very soon- i'm getting excited about it!

[Deimos]

You know I was totally wondering about this as I was doing a brake line on one earlier today. Sounds like you are ready.

[AutoMods]

been so long, i forgot about it. slowly but surely. the little things will get you

[JustinS]

Good stuff Dustin, can't wait to see this back on the road.

[Drifte]

You had it running so quick that first year of the swap, now the big bad parts go in and take up all your time. Anxiously awaiting round two in the passenger seat.

[TbTalon94]

Granted he HAS been busy with other stuff this past year...his own wedding, other weddings, more projects, selling the house, moving, etc. Shit takes up a lot of time.

Lookin good though Dustin, the truck is going to be badass once finally finished. Looking forward to it.

[DustinsDuster]

just about got all of the interior in last night. the bed is bolted back down, the driveshaft is reinstalled, exhaust is tightened up, trans crossmember is all bolted in as well. i got the wiring in the interior all hung up out of the way, and it seems all my gauges are hooked up properly. really, all i've gotta do with the truck is finish installing the interior, fill it with coolant, and thats about it it seems. but i have to get into Marion today, because like a dumbass, i left the other wheel/tire in my Duster when i moved it to my friends, and i still have the other rim on the front from when i was deciding which rims to run. also, i didn't put my new registration sticker or toss the registration in the truck when i got it; which should be over at the in-laws; also in marion. i'll have to get there today and check back. stay tuned; i'll try to get some pics today.

[BGjohnson]

Cool man. Hope I get to see it in person this year.

[AutoMods]

I haven't seen this truck registered in the shootout yet ?? lock it in

[DustinsDuster]

I haven't seen this truck registered in the shootout yet ?? lock it in

i feel like registering before it's actually driving around might jinx me; might have to go by Murphy this year- seems i can't get away from little problems. soon Ryan.

on that note, started the truck and drove it around the block tonight. once up to temp, it didn't want to stay idling, but the chip is from Brent's car, and i believe his setup was just a little different than mine. if nothing else, i guess i could just adjust the throttle cable a bit to raise the idle for now. lifters tick a bit, but Trevor told me that's to be expected at first. the clutch pedal pushes smooth and really pretty easy, and it seemed to shift just fine(at low RPM anyway). it does sound like the trans might be rattling on the crossmember just a bit; i'm gonna check the mount and make sure it's completely tight tomorrow, and if nothing else, i'll just watch to see where it's hitting and clearance the crossmember. my big worry though; it seemed if i got a little up there in RPM(up around 2.5-3k) i thought i could hear a little whine coming from the trans. it's kinda hard to tell; the truck's pretty loud inside, there's lots of noises going on, and i haven't got a boot for the shifter yet, so it's pretty much open to the ground as i drive. i'm praying it's just the trans sitting almost completely dry for 4-5 years, and it's just getting the fluid going through the whole trans. fingers crossed.

any trans gurus want to chime in here?

[AutoMods]

i take it you accidently locked this thread. i unlocked it.

on the other hand, committing to the shootout has got my ass in gear these last couple years. otherwise i'd just hee haw around

[Drifte]

I noticed t56's that Ive ridden or driven whine. I figured it was normal. I wouldnt adjust the idle with the throttle cable, but the isc screw is ok to use.

Long term, what were you thinking for paint?

[Sleepy]

That's awesome you are getting it buttoned up. That first drive after its been apart for a while can be quite stressful.

About registering for the shoot out before its completed. I am afraid I have been jinxed. I keep having issues with mine, unless it gets straightened out here soon, there is no way I am taking it to cfr to blow up again. :disappointed:

[sparkles]

Forgot to get back to you. You get a shifter knob? If not, I have one you can have.

[DustinsDuster]

yeah; i got a plain black one from Jegs. should get me by until i get get my PBR tapper drilled and threaded. perk of the job; i love it.

[DustinsDuster]

i told Ryan i'd post an update here, but it's gonna be short because i'm fucking beat. working on the new house after work is wearing on me. but that's another story. anyway....


ever since i've had my truck running, it's had some issues. it's always run pig rich at idle at part throttle. i've got global fuel down to like -62% and it's still at 11.5:1 AFR most of the time. never seems to starve or go lean either. in any case, i'll be doing a boost leak test and having Ryan go through my injectors to make sure they're operating correctly and not sticking open or anything. stay tuned on that.

the other big issue, was that we got the truck running decent enough to make some pulls, and it would would pull fine until about 5500rpm, and them start popping and missing. DSMLink showed it go lean, fat, lean, fat- just going haywire, and i couldnt figure it out. i was about ready to figure out a way to monitor fuel pressure inside the cab while driving it(using a long steel braided line), when i talked to Trevor again about it, and he told me to double check through the menus in DSMLink, because sometimes the stupidest little thing can trip you up. at this point i'm praying its not a problem with my wiring harness(i have no desire to delve back into it). i opened DSMLink and ended up checking the CEL codes, and the same code that's been up the entire time ive been driving the truck was still there. only this time something clicked when i saw it. VSS malfunction.

Vehicle Speed Sensor. i remembered reading a long while back about a guy who built a harness for his truck, and kept all of his VSS wiring wrapped up because he wanted to rig up a sensor to his truck transmission so he could use the 2-step. he said DSMLink needs that signal to disable the 2-step once the car is moving. i don't have the 2-step enabled on my truck, so i didn't give it any thought. until i brought up the RPM menu- my Rev limiter was set at 7000rpm, and my launch RPM was set at 5500. that's when i realized that the ECU thinks my truck is constantly standing still. even though i could be reaching 100mph in 4th gear, ECU thinks i'm stationary. i changed the launch RPM to 7000 and the rev limit to 7500. went for a drive, shot right up past 6000rpm with no troubles(other than running 10.0:1AFR because i forgot to lean it back out up top.

so for now, a big problem is solved. i'm hoping to get my injectors to Ryan early next week and get them back in my truck and see how it drives. i'm hoping i can get it all sorted out soon; i need a lot of practice driving it if i'm going to try and do anything at the Shoot Out with it. the little 2.0L doesn't like the 1st gear meant for a torquey V8. it needs a gear swap bad; i'm thinking 4.56's, or maybe even 4.88. i'll have to run some numbers. also been researching a cheap way to narrow my rear end using all stock parts. more on that later.

[AutoMods]

lol

[Drifte]

Would have been great to see you at the car show last night with it!

A friend snapped this pic before Kitch showed up

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k27/drifte/2012%20random/2012-08-30_19-22-55_839.jpg

[DustinsDuster]

Maybe next week if I'm not working on the house. I'll see you tomorrow man.

[DustinsDuster]

so it's been over a year since i have updated this. i got so caught up in the house that i didn't get to do much to my truck this year, but as October approached, i decided i was going to finally get my rear end narrowed. i'm lazy, so i'm just going to copy posts from another forum i'm on:

so an update. after i got some house and garage shit squared away, i decided to try and get my truck to the track once before this season is up. i picked up a set of 4.56 gears to replace my 4.10's and hopefully be able to launch better. i also decided if i was going to have the gear swap done, i was going to narrow my Explorer rear end the easy way. Explorer rear axles are offset to the passenger side 3". so you buy another passenger axle, hack the end off the driver side, remove 3" of tube, weld the end back on, move the spring perches. bam, narrowed rear with a centered pinion now too(my driveshaft ran pretty close to the PS of the tunnel.

well, trouble set in when i actually counted the teeth on the ring and pinion i bought(box said 4.56 and i trusted the kid), and i found out they were in fact 4.88 gears. the steep number turned me off at first in a street driven truck, but i started to crunch numbers and started to realize they might actually work better than 4.56's(gotta get out of that V8 mindset; 4cyl's need a lot of gear to make up for no torque).

went like this, my main concern was how much MPH i could pull out of first gear, how much MPH i could pull out of 4th gear, and what RPM i would be running at 70mph in 6th(i couldnt even use 6th gear with 4.10 gears. the little 2.0L just couldnt push that .50:1 gear, even at 75mph). the tires i run on the street are 25.5" tall, and the cheap circle track slicks i picked up for the track are a midget 25".

4.56 gears with 25" tires at 7000rpm in 1st gear(2.66:1) = 42.9mph. 4.88 gears with same tires at 7000rpm in 1st = 40.1. pretty comparable, and a stock DSM with the same size tires would only pull 35mph in first gear because of it's super low gearing (3.08 1st gear, 4.92 final drive)

ok, so how about 6th gear? 4.56 with 25.5" tires at 70mph = 2103rpm. same but with 4.88 = 2251rpm. small difference, but i started to think the 4.88's would really be a wiser choice. 2200-2300rpm is still pretty low cruising speed, but at 75mph, i'm getting up closer to 2500rpm. might just work. but then i hit a snag...

i wanted to be as close to topped out in 4th gear going through the traps(1:1 ratio), so i ran each gear at 7000rpm in 4th gear. problem-

4.56 with 25" tires at 6500rpm in 4th gear = 106mph. 4.88's would only net 99mph! i was already pulling 104-105 last year at the track with 4.10 gears. 7000rpm would net me 114 and 106mph respectively, but that still wasnt enough. everything was good with 4.88's except the top end at the track, so i set out to find different track tires. i made a few calls and texts, and before the day was up i netted a pair of used 28x9" MT ET Drag slicks for $40. now 6500rpm with 4.88's will net me 111mph. 7k will reach 119mph, which is probably about all i could hope for power-wise with this setup, so i'm cool with it.

the rear is at a local shop my friend owns. i was just going to have him set up the gears, but when he started talking about how bad the rear would move and warp if i tried to weld it up, i relented and let him do the work, as he has a jig he can put it in to hold it perfectly square while he welds it. he could also hack the spring perches off with a plasma cutter in 5 minutes, a job that'd probably take me an hour with a grinder. he also had the good idea to put the joint of the shortened end right where the spring perch welds on, so the perch will act like a gusset. sharp guy, that one.

so, i'm waiting to get the rear back from the shop and for a local salvage yard to get me a decent axle shipped in, so i can put it all back together and see how the wheels line up now. they stuck out about 1.25" on either side, so i'm hoping this will flatten everything out. more pics to come, but i snapped a quick couple just so the thread would have them:

http://i.imgur.com/Dx8ft5P.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kXczsVH.jpg




Got the rear end back; they made quick work of it. even hacked off the old sway bar mounts i was never going to use. also finally got a decent axle from the salvage yard, so i put the backing plates on it tonight so i could get a coat of paint, and hopefully tomorrow or Thursday i'll get it back together and get it back under the truck. not sure that i'm going to be able to run my 3" lowering blocks with the ET Drags; might have to rock it with killer rake until i figure something else out. pics:

http://i.imgur.com/dLie3o0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vdfkAh7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w22mgOH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/t4NSktE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cI0CkS3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Nmm4NCE.jpg




the rear end is back under the truck and i've driven it around. it drives much easier, more like you would expect it to. it takes off from a stop much better too. only problem now how easily it breaks the tires loose; 1st gear is pretty useless, 2nd you feather a bit and then can floor it, 3rd's pretty decent. the wheels also sit in the wheel wells now which was one of my big concerns. they almost sit too far in, but if i decide i could switch wheels. the rears now are actually the front Conquest SHP wheels(Sport Handling Package) that are 8" wide like the standard Conquest wheels, but have more backspacing. i still have the standard Conquest rears if i felt like trying them out.

i have some before and after pics to show how much the wheels sit in now, and a video of driving it. i noticed it was running leaner than it did last year, and i couldnt figure out why; nothing had changed. while tearing around a bit i realized my boost gauge got stuck and wasnt reading. i didnt think anything of it and just headed home. upon watching the vid, it looks like the boost gauge shoots up to 25+psi when it should only be around 16psi that i had it set at before. im not sure whats going on with it, but i've got all winter to mess with it. looking forward to hitting the track in the spring with (hopefully) some of these problems sorted out. pics:


http://i.imgur.com/9Zydg52.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bgDM67y.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/shKHAcX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mDPR5lV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NsCqOfN.jpg


i also found out the hard way that if you run any steeper gear than 4.10 in an 8.8 Ford rear that you have to find a way to get the cross shaft out of the diff. they make a notched shaft, but most report they break over time and destroy the carrier. i absolutely hated clearancing a tooth on the ring gear, but apparently 4x4 guys do this all the time and have no problems. if trucks that weigh 2000lbs more with 40" tall tires and V8's are fine with the notched tooth, i'm assuming my 2600lb truck with no torque will be fine.

http://i.imgur.com/u2HJYot.jpg


vid:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agbtaJ_4IOs

[AutoMods]

very nice. glad to hear it running again. you probably knew this, but those bias tires will grow probably 3/4" on the big end at 120mph. also you could always rev that 4g63 to 8k if needed

[DustinsDuster]

very nice. glad to hear it running again. you probably knew this, but those bias tires will grow probably 3/4" on the big end at 120mph. also you could always rev that 4g63 to 8k if needed

I'm really starting to wonder if I dont have it timed right; it really doesn't seem to have much up past 6k. Very odd, especially with the cams I have. Only pulled 103-104mph at the track too; also kind of off for a 13.4 with a 2.1 60'. I'll delve more into it this winter. Can't wait for spring!

[Drifte]

You ended up running it at the track this year or that was your time from last year? New garage looks nice too.

[DustinsDuster]

You ended up running it at the track this year or that was your time from last year? New garage looks nice too.


i never did make it to the track this year; bummer. but i do have all winter now to wrap up some details so hopefully i can hit the track as soon as spring comes around.


the garage is pretty nice; hopefully be heated before November is up. gotta get ahold of Jesse about insulating!

[DustinsDuster]

so, i suppose it's time for my Semi Annual update. Done a few things here and there. I ground the spindles on the truck a bit so the caliper sit a bit more square; as the outer pads were really only using half the rotor face. between that and realizing the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the booster had a big kink in it, the truck stops awesomely now. i also went with 2" lowering blocks in the rear instead of the 3" because the housing was hitting a frame crossmember over pretty much every bump i hit. it's much nicer to drive now, and i actually like how it sits better, so i'll be sticking with these. the blocks also have a bit of an angle which leveled out my pinion angle. two birds with one stone.

driveline-wise, i finally got the idle pretty well smoothed out. testing the ICS showed one bad coil inside, so i got a spare from Brent- but so far the truck is doing fine with this one. i also got a cheap MBC and upped the boost to around 20psi and have been working on getting it tuned well like this. i actually had a bit of knock under WOT, but not from running lean; but rich. DSMLink showed bottom 10's and even 9's of A/F. kindof strange considering i was running global fuel down at likw -39% with 560cc injectors. I dropped global fuel down to -41% (IIRC) and leaned out the fuel tables in the upper RPM's and seem to see pretty consistent 11.1-11.5 A/F under WOT in the upper RPM range, but i haven't had a chance to go out and log a few pulls again since Monday. I can say for sure that the truck has never felt faster to me. 1st and 2nd gear are tricky now; as the truck will break loose as the turbo spools if i don't ease into the throttle, all the way through 2nd gear.

i also finally got around to hooking up the wiring on my transmission. not only does this mean i finally have Reverse lights and Reverse is easier to shift into now, but i also wired the Vehicle Speed Sensor into my ECU, so now i can utilize DSMLink's Launch RPM. that combined with the 4.88 gears make the truck MUCH easier to launch now. with stickier tires at the track, i'm hoping i'll be down into the 1.8 60' range or so(compared to 2.1 in 2012).

On the to-do list now is a lot of little things: install some kind of fitting in the valve cover(i forgot it was just open at the back and a bit of oil has seeped out), cut a half a coil out of the front springs to bring the front down just about an inch, fab up a driveshaft loop, get a shifter boot to seal to the floor(it's just open under the console ATM), I'm still debating on which tires to get, but leaning towards Nitto 555R's for the track(check my other thread and give and opinion), and i've debated ditching the stock gauge cluster and building a new one with the other gauges i have lying around, but i don't know if i'll get to that. i have an EGT Pyrometer gauge, Fuel Level and i believe a Volt Meter all lying around that match my other gauges, but i feel like if i was going to go through the trouble to make a cluster, that i should bite the bullet and get a speedometer as well; and i'm not sure if i can just wire my VSS from my trans to an Autometer gauge, or if i need some kind of interface. anyone else have any insight on that?

I've been driving the truck everywhere the last week or so, and i've just been loving it. not just because it feels faster than before, but just because it's been easier to drive. it idles pretty nice now, and is fairly predictable, especially compared to what it was before. it doesn't bottom out or bang against the frame whenever i hit a bump, and it actually cruises at common speeds pretty nicely. i don't use 6th gear much unless the speed limit is 70mph, and at 2500rpm in 6th i'm pulling about 78mph. it runs pretty rich doing it, and it'll build boost if you give too much throttle, and there's a bit of a drone(sounds to be pretty common with T56 cars in 6th gear), but it's awesome being able to cruise at that speed at that RPM.


so i guess that's it for now- i'll try to get some pics and maybe even a couple vids in the next week or so. I'm getting pretty pumped to get to a track sometime soon and see what i can get out of the truck. Stay tuned.

[McKeever]

I'm glad those blocks worked well for ya. I'll be head to CFR this Saturday if you wanna line the mini trucks again.

[Drifte]

Have to wait all year for an update, and not a single picture? BTW, can I join the mini truck mafia? ahh, I wonder if anyone actually remembers that existed.

[DustinsDuster]

Mini Truck Militia, and I don't know- TBSS is full size. I'll take some more pics, but there's really not a ton of new stuff to see like that. I'll try to get some video of it driving. Stay tuned.

Also, I have a bar crawl with my work and my friends' band is playing Saturday, so I won't be making it to the track that day. Soon though.

[Drifte]

I have an 87 s10 now for moving junk. would be sweet with a 4g and t56...but I will probably just let it be a dog with that iron duke in it. will probably slam it on its shnutz though, for..reasons.

[AutoMods]

you have a strong rear end and tranny now so there is no excuse for not having a doughnut video

[DustinsDuster]

Except for trying to keep the damn thing u dear control with manual steering...

[TbTalon94]

I have some autometer CF series gauges if you want them. Have matching Tach/Speedo (3.5" or 4" i think), fuel level, and water temp.

[DustinsDuster]

I'll keep it in mind Trevor, but i have most of what i would need(except the speedometer) and it'd all match. now it's just whether or not i want to spend the money. I'll keep you guys all posted.

[Drifte]

I have some autometer CF series gauges if you want them. Have matching Tach/Speedo (3.5" or 4" i think), fuel level, and water temp.
id bet we can fit at least 20 gauges in the s-dime and still see out.

[DustinsDuster]

Annual check in time. I don't even know where to begin from last time, so I'll just jump in the plans I'm currently working on.

Got a good deal on Turbonetics cast manifold with a T3 flange from Andrew, and it was just the kick in the ass I needed to bump up to a bigger turbo. I sold the EvoIII 16G, 2g manifold and TABFAB downpipe/TiAl wastegate as a unit to help fund a new turbo because I wanted to go with a standard 4 bolt flange since the wastegate mounts on manifold runner now. Can't remember the exact part number or size off the top of my head, but Ryan hooked me up with a billet wheel/ball bearing Turbonetics unit that's comparable to a GT35r in size. unlike cars, where the turbo gets close to the block when you go too big, I have the opposite problem, seems that if I install the turbo and manifold as a unit, there's just barely enough clearance. the plan is to pull the motor and modify the inner fender to give more clearance and probably make a heatshield for the upper control arm so the turbo doesnt cook the bushings over time:

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/560209_10102359372186190_6572215534601859780_n.jpg ?oh=6defe8b3fe3f4f0983a7faf5bf04a16f&oe=55C6FF7B
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10940598_10102359372121320_2458251221045349202_n.j pg?oh=4117a73cf0631db8d612dc54b341647a&oe=55C0D582&__gda__=1442349972_77aec462acf11928aa795d6d5386261 b
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10945047_10102359372061440_5821753857832981512_n.j pg?oh=130113bfed9366c67bdbdfb5dcae493c&oe=55F5FC0F


speaking of pulling the motor, i plan to fab up some struts to bolt between the block and bellhousing. the bellhousing is currently only held on with 4 bolts, but was cast with extra bosses to brace it as power levels increase. I also plan on checking the condition of the clutch and making sure that I used ARP rod bolts when I had the short block assembled(pretty sure I did, but I just can't remember for sure. I also plan on welding a 3/8" hose nipple on the waterpipe so I can do away with that funky patch pipe that feeds the turbo from the lower radiator hose. a lot of people tell me the turbo doesn't need to be water-cooled, but I like the added reliability. also, the way I plumbed my coolant, it bypasses the thermostat and goes directly from the turbo to my heater core. I get hot air blowing in the time it takes me to drive a block. shit's awesome.


the bigger turbo will require more fuel, so I had to address that. I bought another gas tank from a fuel injected Mighty Max. Then i picked up a Walbro 400 fuel pump for it. the tank was pretty nasty when I got it; especially the top of the sending unit. The lines were only 5/16', and they were pretty rotted to boot. Scott at H&W came through by welding in some 6an steel bungs in place of the original lines, and turning some ends for inside the tank that i could attach rubber fuel line to. I plan to get a length of aluminum 3/8" fuel line to run up to the engine, and then use the original 5/16" supply line as a return. with some short 6an jumper lines connecting the tank to the hard lines, the tank should be easy to drop if ever need be. the tank was sprayed with a rust inhibitor, and then Plasti-dip.
I also had to address the fuel level sending unit. I ended up buying those gauges from Trevor, which include a Speedo, tach, electric watertemp and fuel level. problem was, the gauge was set to work with a modern ford 233 ohm sending unit, and no where near worked with my stock one. after some research, i came across a universal sending unit from Stewart Warner calibrated for the 233ohm. the unit adjusts to the depth of the tank, and you shorten the lever and ball to the desired length as well. of course, it didn't bolt into the tank, so I located it through one bolt hole, and cut apart the old sending unit to make a hold down plate for it. it's not pretty, but it should work- and you'll never see it anyway.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/15600_10102592551892190_3506252662397359742_n.jpg? oh=509485c487a1a5ebaddb94f558ca34be&oe=56009033
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/10330429_10102592551827320_2440356515351141867_n.j pg?oh=26454da932815b77f9498027bfa68958&oe=560A0C63
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11071701_10102592551802370_382219936135276532_n.jp g?oh=c1057f6e45a50c26ee41c05456fa44ae&oe=55F3F13C
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11078231_10102592551812350_6895413586015253494_n.j pg?oh=a2678effdaf8ec5a872733015fca3b63&oe=55FA575C
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/20912_10102592551787400_1599579029302736779_n.jpg? oh=f5c66bbba0a217127aeb2c746cbf2833&oe=56053C52
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10406588_10102592551747480_2300881290277321364_n.j pg?oh=8635e1ec97d78cbeedfe5ad0ed51e0c6&oe=560D88A8
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11063795_10102592551727520_83736434037618324_n.jpg ?oh=9ce0002c96c586772e3ff186f7ea30c0&oe=55C36EE2
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11350473_10102592551722530_9007569959761432799_n.j pg?oh=861a3040104246fecca01b79f358865b&oe=55BECC3A
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11222679_10102592551672630_5667606422071159936_n.j pg?oh=65c74272470a9a6b2986c6370b6be11a&oe=55F77E97
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/1510455_10102592551677620_5014520589256411709_n.jp g?oh=3e6c9c2f8566cdb02876ff54302ae60b&oe=55C8C803
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11209585_10102592551667640_1428544036188497552_n.j pg?oh=9be9ca0e0876a900d038df1b209fc98d&oe=560D117A


the dash is back out again as well. I bought the CF Autometer tach, speedo, water temp and fuel level gauges from Trevor, so I decided I will move the A/F gauge into the cluster, lose the monster tach and just mount a small shift light on the column where the Innovate gauge was. I also bought an old circle track Sweet steering wheel at the swap meet for cheap and was going to weld up a mount that would keep the wheel detachable, but found out the wheel had the same 3 bolt pattern as splined hub already on my truck, so it's solidly mounted now. if for some reason I ever cage the truck, I'd probably make it detachable.
The ECU came out with the dash, and I'll probably send it off to ECMLink this week to get upgraded to V3 full. I got a GM 3 bar MAP sensor, so I'll be eliminating the Evo8 MAS. Before the engine goes back in, I'm going to pick up some 1150cc injectors for it. The plan is to run E85 eventually.


That's about it for now; I'll try to be more diligent with updates.

[McKeever]

Good to see project still moving along. I sure you have already said somewhere in the thread already, but what fuel pump were you running before moving to the Walbro 400?

[DustinsDuster]

Walbro 255 mounted inline in the supply line. does fine for me now, but I'll need a lot more for E85

[McKeever]

You must be planning on making some big power. I have read that a single 255 is good up to 500hp with E85. I'll be making this switch to E85 in the future, but I'm hoping my in tank 255 will get it done.

[DustinsDuster]

it might have; but I really wasn't much a fan of the inline pump spliced into the 5/16" lines. i figure if I'm gonna do it at all, might as well do it right the first time. Ryan says my turbo's good for about 520whp. I doubt I'll be anywhere near that, but it's nice to not worry about fuel delivery.

[AutoMods]

keep up the good work. I may need to borrow your truck sometime if I have something to move ;)

Your turbo is a 61 billet compressor, with a 62mm turbine wheel, ported S compressor cover, .63 a/r, ball bearing.

The walbro 255's have done 500whp on e85 but it depends on your base fuel pressure and boost which raises fuel pressure and lowers pump flow. I'd feel safer staying at or below 450whp on a single 255. The 400 walbro should be able to handle 700+ whp on e85

[slow ride]

What was the last turbo in it? Ryan I think that HP estimate on that turbo is a little low. On a 2.0l that should support 600+ whp, but not sure how spool will be. I made 523 whp on my 2.4/ hks 272/ 8cm red (which is only a 60-1 wheel) at about 29-30 psi and c16. I wouldn't be surprised if that turbo could make 700 really strung out, but the smaller exhaust housing might be the limit. Bumping it to a .82 might get it there.

[AutoMods]

yea everything slow ride side is right on ^ . Dustin was orginally looking at a few turbo options, the 520whp estimate was probably a smaller option we talked about.

[slow ride]

I see. That compressor wheel will be my future upgrade at some point unless my old cast junk makes all I need.

[Drifte]

Nice to see this is still going. I had modified my old DSM fuel pump assembly the exact same way.