LMFAO!

[sLoWnStEaDy]

O.K.

Most probably won't find this funny reallt but i do and i am sure Drifte will..
This is a "1600W amp" off ebay, a Mitzu to be exact...


http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/500/dsc00474kk6.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/5737/dsc00476hh2.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/5846/dsc00478tr8.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/7720/dsc00482zi4.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/835/dsc00484kz3.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/7238/dsc00488vh3.jpg

[sLoWnStEaDy]

For comparison...

my old 300 watt Orion 3002 amp:
http://www.imagechicken.com/uploads/1223254866044347300.jpg (http://www.imagechicken.com)

and my old 4000 watt Autotek MM4000.1D
http://www.imagechicken.com/uploads/1223254910013051700.jpg (http://www.imagechicken.com)

[ZEE]

Needs all that room in there for cooling of the high quality components :supz:

[n8kerns]

Haha, I dont know jack about amps and I can figure that out =P

Reminds me of someone who got ripped off on a wireless adapter. Saw it somewhere dont remember where.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i114/Mewtd/l22153.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i114/Mewtd/cheap_usb_key.jpg

[69gt4speed]

Well where's the inverter, toroids, switching mosfets and control ic? Looks to me a simple bridge floating setup like most factory car stereo dash units. P rms = e2/r last i knew. It takes about +- 42v to equal 100w at 8 ohms. Discounting vce sat. A bridge at 14v maybe 13 w at 8 ohms. 7 x .707 x result / 8 The only way around it is use a transformer on the outputs. And they are big, I used a modulator transformer in 74 and the audio quality was so so even w neg feedback. I used a germanium output w a 60 watt modulator am transformer. These days w single ic a inverter is a lot better imo. Inverter where by you invert 12 v into a higher voltage at hi freq. Make +- 40 some volts.

[ZEE]

It ain't got no flux capacitor is what rob is trying to say.:)

[Drifte]

IM pretty much at a loss for words. Whats a unit like that cost ya? Looks like they sell you a hidden storage compartment with a built in amp.

[69gt4speed]

Well Zee back in my early days worked for king radio (aircraft nav gear) and jerrold electronics (cable line amps, descramblers etc.) That was my real joy along w cars. But gotta pay the bills. Looking up the power audio ic we get this... A complete ripoff. I'm sure the 20 watts is specified at 14.4 v and 4 ohms, that doubles your power. Back in 70's, home stereos were made to conform to a test which was based on rms power which the car stereo ppl never did adopt. It's like gross hp vs sae certified hp but worse. This is nothing more than a car dash unit in power. Without btl (bridge tied load) you get about 3+ watts.
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-p ... 210AH.html (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/31447/TOSHIBA/TA8210AH.html)

[sLoWnStEaDy]

IM pretty much at a loss for words. Whats a unit like that cost ya? Looks like they sell you a hidden storage compartment with a built in amp.


That one... about $60~ plus probably $30~ shipping... Before i knew what i was doing in teh car audio world (specificaly amps) I purchased an MD Sound amp from one of those super sales

http://www.imagechicken.com/uploads/1223382677089596100.jpg (http://www.imagechicken.com)
http://www.imagechicken.com/uploads/1223382697051393500.jpg (http://www.imagechicken.com)
http://www.imagechicken.com/uploads/1223382712074997400.jpg (http://www.imagechicken.com)

this was suppose to be like 1600 rms @ 1ohm... ended up selling it after about 2 weeks or so. It ended up putting out about 700 rms @ 1ohm on 14.4v

[ZEE]

It drives me nuts that people spew out peak power when it doesn't really mean squat as far as stable continuous output. The whole 14.4 volt ratings for power output is ridiculous too since most cars aren't seeing that voltage anyways. Which makes it miss leading. especially when matching speaker ratings to amp output ratings. It's just another way for manufacturers to spit out higher ratings numbers for sales.

[Drifte]

Good companies rate their equipment around 12v. The Stro runs an ED 9.1 rated at 1200w. rms at 12.5v.

Some amps for thought/comparison:
an ed nine.2 http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Elemental_Designs_NINe.2/inside1.jpg

nine1 http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Elemental_Designs_NINe.1/inside1.jpg

Arc Khttp://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Arc_KAR_900.1D/inside2.jpg

memphis belle http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Memphis_Belle_(Fultron)/inside1.jpg

Rainbow http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Rainbow_KW_M2000/inside1.jpg

Power acoustic http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Power_Acoustik_G1800-2/inside1.jpg

Dual...http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Dual_PBA2150/inside1.jpg

Zapco{img]http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Zapco_Studio_100/inside1.jpg[/img]

soundstream Picasso http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Soundstream_Picasso_PCA1000D/inside1.jpg

[69gt4speed]

Yea Zee, continous rms rating at xx ohm loan at xx harmonic distortion and imd is best we have. Then as now ppl argue over tubes vs solid state. Slew rate, tim, etc. etc. Even brand of components, black gate capacitors, brand of tubes, semiconductors. Ppl argue endless like brands of car parts. Some ppl argue over 300b triodes aand paper in oil capacitors.

Those amps look very good they have a inverter and most appear to have matched pair outputs.