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TbTalon94
01-09-2007, 10:06 AM
Well I figured we could get a little information spread around about different boost controllers and see who's got what around here. I know there are a lot of "newbs" around here that don't know how to use a boost controller or what the differences are. So let's start a little Tech thread.

I'll start it off on a few i've personally used on my cars.


Manual Boost controller (MBC):

-Hallman ES MBC:
Pretty simple to use. Ball & Spring type with small bleeder hole. Install is very simple. Adjust boost by turning knob in to increase pressure, or out to decrease pressure.

Electronic Boost Controller (ebc):

-Greddy Profec Type-S
Also pretty simple to use. There are 3 knobs; low boost, high boost, and Gain. It's obvious what Low/High boost means, but Gain can sometimes confuse people. To put it simple...The more gain you have the more likely it is to have boost spike, and the less gain you have the more likely it is to have boost creep.
EBC's are nice because they usually have 2 stages of boost control, and can be adjusted within the car. You don't need to stop, pop your hood, then make a few turns on the MBC and go make a run and hope you didn't turn it to far. Some of them have features to help control boost a lot better as well

-AEM tru-boost
This is a little bit different then the Greddy, HKS, Blitz box style controllers. THe AEM tru-boost is a boost gauge and controller on ine. It is a digital boost gauge with 2 buttons that control the functions. There are many functions that are used to control boost. A few are: low boost, high boost, scramble boost, crack (waste gate) pressure, along with a few more gauge features.
This controller is GREAT because one it is digital, easy to read...but also controls the boost awesome. The boost adjustment is a little different then other controllers though. The adjustment is solenoid duty cycle. So 10%-90% duty cycle. 10% being no duty, or wastegate pressure and 90% duty meaning max boost.
Another confusing thing is the crack or wastegate pressure. It is kind of like the "gain" on the Greddy unit. Basically you set your turbo's wastegate spring pressure and adjust as you see fit. If you get a little boost spike, then you make the crack pressure a little lower. If you get some creep then you make the crack pressure a little higher. If you adjust it to high you get this kind of pulsating boost effect where it will shoot up to your desired boost pressure then drop down, then go back up. Not good.


So if you have some feedback on some boost controllers you use, feel free to post them up!

Ricky
01-09-2007, 11:04 AM
i really don't have a problem with controlling boost :(

Drifte
01-09-2007, 12:40 PM
i used a Forge bleeder type boost controller. Once I figured out how to hook it up (being used to the ball and spring MBC) it was great. Very fine adjustments. The knob says what way increases and decreases boost. It ofcourse has no control over the wastegates minimum boost. so i ran 9 at all times at the lowest.

rysbrnr
01-09-2007, 01:17 PM
I've used in order:
-fish tank aquarium bleeder valve (manual)
-SARD Trigger Boost Controller (electronic with stepper motor)
-HKS EVC4 (Electronic)
-Greddy Profec B (electronic)
-Trust (Greddy) Manual controller
-Apex-i AVC-R (electronic)
-my own design (ball/spring manual controller)$9 in parts

I'm running AVC-R for now til I get my manual controller back...It's currently being used on 90Notch's brother's wagon and took the car to a 9.0 pass late this fall. I don't have much time to make a nice write up like TbTalon's but will come back and edit this later if more people want me to. I can say this much though, not all electronic controllers are the same there are some that are better than others. And not all electronic controllers are better than manuals one.... My current manual controller I made is the spools my the turbo faster than anything electronic I've used with the only drawback is not being able to adjust boost on the fly from the cockpit.
Out of the electronic controllers I've used I like in order:
SARD Trigger
Greddy Profec
Apex-i AVC-R
HKS EVC
The Trust manual controller is great is you can get your hands on one and I was stupid and traded it off many years ago.

The SARD is probably what AEM and Turbosmart modeled their design after. The SARD is also a gauge and controller all in one. It's a 60mm unit that can mount in your A-pillar pod and has lots of adjustability options. The boost controlling module is similar to the Greddy Controller in that is has a (IMO more accurate)huge stepper motor controll unit unlike the APexi unit that uses a "on/off" valve that is modulated by the pit controller.

JJ240
01-11-2007, 07:46 PM
I was thinking about building a manual/electric hybrid boost controller. Simple bleeder, with a mini solenoid and pressure switch. Set the bleeder to the correct boost, drop in the NC solenoid, and a the pressure switch set to the boost you want (with a true boost signal) and voila no premature wastegate leak with a low budget at the expense of slight spike (not major either). Aren't stupid little projects more fun than the main project as a whole? It must be the instant gratification from finising a short project

StreetSweeper
01-11-2007, 10:05 PM
HALLMAN MBC... Best way to go..


Hell it powers shep into the 7s.

rysbrnr
01-12-2007, 11:00 PM
I was thinking about building a manual/electric hybrid boost controller. Simple bleeder................ no premature wastegate leak with a low budget at the expense of slight spike (not major either).

Yeah, a simple bleeder it the best bang for the buck. I'll try to quickly explain the spiking and w/g leak for some who might not understand it.
Say you had boost set for 20psi, the controller will keep the w/g completely shut like it should, but when boosts starting climbing to 16-17 psi, the controller starts to bleed a boost signal to the w/g. In turn it slows the rising rate of max boost pressure in order to minmize the spikes shooting past your 20psi. I myself would rather spike a pound or two over your setting in order to gain maximum boost response meaning the w/g is completely shut til 20psi. So the "give & take" is boost spikes vs. boost's rising rate or gain/volume. choose one or the other.

TbTalon94
01-15-2007, 08:42 AM
I agree with you rys. I'd definatly take a little boost spike over slow boost response and/or boost creep.