The Laser
09-07-2014, 12:07 PM
Hello. I am looking to sell my 1991 Mazda miata. Runs and drives great and is perfect for a winter beater or auto-x/LeMons project. Myself have raced it last year and ran like a champ, even broke into the 1:20's on bald HP tires at the marshalltown go-kart track, so has tons of potential with simply tires and upgraded suspension. Comes with a plethora of parts with receipts for most everything. Has a lot of extra vehicle parts as well that came with when I bought it. Also has a lower mileage engine installed from 2 POs ago. Some replacement parts are NOT installed yet, but list includes:
NEW clutch kit and flywheel
New clutch overhaul kit from 949 racing which includes new, OEM, master and slave clutch cylinders, SS braided shorty clutch line, and new synthetic hydraulic fluid
New maser gasket set
New exhaust gaskets
New front and rear main seals
New fab9 coil on plug kit with tach adaptor (NOT plug and play. Needs tach adaptor wired up to run properly and I can't figure it out)
New Robbins canvas panorama top-not installed
Poly bushings-rear lowers and uppers installed
Grease-zerks for bushings (makes lubing easier instead of taking them apart)
New factory camber bolts
Poly steering rack bushings-installed 2 months ago
PCV valve
O2 sensor
Thermostat and gasket
Steering rack bellows
New rear lower control arm bolts
What's been replaced within the last year:
Battery
Fuel filter
Plugs and wires (both NGK OEM)
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
Short shifter
Momo start seat (may keep)
Thompson air horn with button (stock horn wires were completely cut out. Sounds great and is loud)
Fluids were flushed after I bought it but will need flushed anyway if you plan to rebuild the engine.
Replaced one of the rear upper control arms with a good used one and the left rear caliper with reman.
Replaced alternator belt.
The bad:
Will need new ball joints. Tried buying moog lowers but they started packing cheap Korean ones in their boxes. Suggest going with OE for lowers and moog for uppers. Uppers need to be pressed out PROFESSIONALLY. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself at home as you could break the control arm. New control arms come with new ball joints, but getting them pressed instead will save you money.
Needs new tie rod ends. They are the ones I got with the car when I bought it. I think they are cheap ones, so would recommend OE part.
Has weight reduction done. As in, no PS, no AC, no radio, and rust. The car is light enough that it feels natural without PS and even on hot days, the top down is enough to cool you off on the highway. Has rust on rear wheel behind passenger the worst.
Exhaust needs redone. Is cut off at axle but doesn't bleed into the cabin that much, if at all. Also needs cat replaced while you're at it.
No top currently. It was trashed when I got it and tried putting the new one on myself and got washed out from constant rain. Be a good idea to replace window seals. IL motorsports sells a complete set, minus front windshield seal, for under $200. 2 pieces alone from factory are well over that much.
Hood is screwed from not having the hood pins on before driving it. Wanted to replace the hood anyway so it wasn't a big deal for me.
Wires are tucked. Makes the engine bay a LOT more accessible but everything is now in the cabin under dash, making it difficult to trace problems.
Has no gauge hood. Not a huge deal but the sticker on top of gauge cluster gets annoying at time reflecting in window.
Paint is custom. Is chalkboard paint and makes it a rolling art piece, but needs a lot more coats to be decent.
Needs new shocks. Was saving fora flyin miata set of coil overs but even a set of GR-2s would be enough to get it back to being even more comfortable. Current shocks aren't leaking, they're just old and I've raced on them.
Has oil leak. This is what the gasket set is for.
Frame rail is bent on drivers side near front. 2 POs ago had it slammed and scraped the piss out of the rails. Luckily the engine and subframe were unharmed. Could have a shop cut and weld new ones in then put on flyin miata's butterfly brace set. This was my original plan.
Drivers window regulator doesn't work and passenger is a little shifty. They're manual windows and are easy to convert to power windows. Company sells a complete kit with all new parts for $400. Regulators alone go for over 1/2 that price.
Pop-up lights don't work. One did but disconnected it to leave lights on without fully opening the door. Now the connectors are corroded. Driers side needs wiring figured out as that one doesn't open, but motor works for sure. Could possibly splice into passenger side as they come from the same switch.
No airbag or wiring. Again, 2 POs ago.
Hazard switch needs replaced of repaired. Works very intermittently but never stays on. Company makes replacement switches that turn them into toggle switches.
No rear bumper. The support is gone so there's nothing to bolt the cover on to. Zip ties will work for a bit but you will need some high-strength ones.
Locks are wonky. They are hard to turn when the car is locked but I've never had any problems since I just leave it unlocked.
I have purchased a 92 parts car that has almost no rust and a dent on drivers rear quarter. Is fairly complete but has salvage title. Lots if good pieces on it and could even swap everything from black car to this one and have a fairly clean car.
All-in-all is a fun car despite all the problems it has and has been reliable for me. This is a great car to get into beginner racing/auto-xing and even with some basic mods can be very competitive. Price is $2700 OBSO. I know this may seem high, but the top and COP set were $850 together for those 2 parts, and it comes with a bunch of other parts. Cash always talks. Clean title as well.
http://s104.photobucket.com/user/Sephiroth_101_2006/library/miata
NEW clutch kit and flywheel
New clutch overhaul kit from 949 racing which includes new, OEM, master and slave clutch cylinders, SS braided shorty clutch line, and new synthetic hydraulic fluid
New maser gasket set
New exhaust gaskets
New front and rear main seals
New fab9 coil on plug kit with tach adaptor (NOT plug and play. Needs tach adaptor wired up to run properly and I can't figure it out)
New Robbins canvas panorama top-not installed
Poly bushings-rear lowers and uppers installed
Grease-zerks for bushings (makes lubing easier instead of taking them apart)
New factory camber bolts
Poly steering rack bushings-installed 2 months ago
PCV valve
O2 sensor
Thermostat and gasket
Steering rack bellows
New rear lower control arm bolts
What's been replaced within the last year:
Battery
Fuel filter
Plugs and wires (both NGK OEM)
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
Short shifter
Momo start seat (may keep)
Thompson air horn with button (stock horn wires were completely cut out. Sounds great and is loud)
Fluids were flushed after I bought it but will need flushed anyway if you plan to rebuild the engine.
Replaced one of the rear upper control arms with a good used one and the left rear caliper with reman.
Replaced alternator belt.
The bad:
Will need new ball joints. Tried buying moog lowers but they started packing cheap Korean ones in their boxes. Suggest going with OE for lowers and moog for uppers. Uppers need to be pressed out PROFESSIONALLY. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself at home as you could break the control arm. New control arms come with new ball joints, but getting them pressed instead will save you money.
Needs new tie rod ends. They are the ones I got with the car when I bought it. I think they are cheap ones, so would recommend OE part.
Has weight reduction done. As in, no PS, no AC, no radio, and rust. The car is light enough that it feels natural without PS and even on hot days, the top down is enough to cool you off on the highway. Has rust on rear wheel behind passenger the worst.
Exhaust needs redone. Is cut off at axle but doesn't bleed into the cabin that much, if at all. Also needs cat replaced while you're at it.
No top currently. It was trashed when I got it and tried putting the new one on myself and got washed out from constant rain. Be a good idea to replace window seals. IL motorsports sells a complete set, minus front windshield seal, for under $200. 2 pieces alone from factory are well over that much.
Hood is screwed from not having the hood pins on before driving it. Wanted to replace the hood anyway so it wasn't a big deal for me.
Wires are tucked. Makes the engine bay a LOT more accessible but everything is now in the cabin under dash, making it difficult to trace problems.
Has no gauge hood. Not a huge deal but the sticker on top of gauge cluster gets annoying at time reflecting in window.
Paint is custom. Is chalkboard paint and makes it a rolling art piece, but needs a lot more coats to be decent.
Needs new shocks. Was saving fora flyin miata set of coil overs but even a set of GR-2s would be enough to get it back to being even more comfortable. Current shocks aren't leaking, they're just old and I've raced on them.
Has oil leak. This is what the gasket set is for.
Frame rail is bent on drivers side near front. 2 POs ago had it slammed and scraped the piss out of the rails. Luckily the engine and subframe were unharmed. Could have a shop cut and weld new ones in then put on flyin miata's butterfly brace set. This was my original plan.
Drivers window regulator doesn't work and passenger is a little shifty. They're manual windows and are easy to convert to power windows. Company sells a complete kit with all new parts for $400. Regulators alone go for over 1/2 that price.
Pop-up lights don't work. One did but disconnected it to leave lights on without fully opening the door. Now the connectors are corroded. Driers side needs wiring figured out as that one doesn't open, but motor works for sure. Could possibly splice into passenger side as they come from the same switch.
No airbag or wiring. Again, 2 POs ago.
Hazard switch needs replaced of repaired. Works very intermittently but never stays on. Company makes replacement switches that turn them into toggle switches.
No rear bumper. The support is gone so there's nothing to bolt the cover on to. Zip ties will work for a bit but you will need some high-strength ones.
Locks are wonky. They are hard to turn when the car is locked but I've never had any problems since I just leave it unlocked.
I have purchased a 92 parts car that has almost no rust and a dent on drivers rear quarter. Is fairly complete but has salvage title. Lots if good pieces on it and could even swap everything from black car to this one and have a fairly clean car.
All-in-all is a fun car despite all the problems it has and has been reliable for me. This is a great car to get into beginner racing/auto-xing and even with some basic mods can be very competitive. Price is $2700 OBSO. I know this may seem high, but the top and COP set were $850 together for those 2 parts, and it comes with a bunch of other parts. Cash always talks. Clean title as well.
http://s104.photobucket.com/user/Sephiroth_101_2006/library/miata