NANO Nitrous.... Lets hear your thoughts here

[Phish]

So i recently purchased a NANO system to run on the RX7. My main reasons for running the system is always constant bottle pressure and never having to wait on the bottle heater to warm up. (lets face it guys, with todays roll racing there is no down time between runs) Since it was boughten, i have had people comment to me that they love it and its the best thing in the world and then i get the nay sayers who say its the worst thing out there and a heater will do just as well and its just the next new nitrous "gimmick". Whats your thoughts on the system fellas?

Couple links to some random places

http://www.nanonitrous.com/

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1003_nano_nitrous_system/viewall.html

[RedRocketZ28]

http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1633707-few-nano-kit-questions.html

Good read there. I always heard it was a headache in the summer months.

[Phish]

Yeah i have read that thread and looked into the larger pressure issue. I talked to a coupel peopel about it and basically i heard that they have not seen pressures over 1200 max. They also say that when it cools down at night the pressure thing is not really an issue. I have seen and ran my bottle at 1200psi with the bottle heater on it already so thats not worrying me to much. As a last resort, the NANO bottles can be adjusted for pressure. You coudl dial it back in the summer.

Thats good though. Issues like this is what i am looking for. I am sure i will have my own experience with it but i am intersted to see how it performs and how well it really does. Worst case senario, i go back to a bottle heater and sell the kit.

[Deimos]

good run all the way through the track. Message the dude on facebook to adjust jet sizes. He is a real cool dude.

[Scott]

I owned one for a month and had it flowed running 16 nozzles at induction solutions, long story short they work good for small nitrous shots but you still want to make sure your bottle stays below a certain temperature to help keep the nitrous in a liquid state. If your bottle is 95ish+ degrees the nano wont do anything since bottle pressure will already be over 1000 so you will need ice packs or something to cool it. With large shots, cold bottle, the nitrogen provides a false pressure and drops dramatically after a couple seconds as it struggles to keep up with flow. Running 4 nitrogen bottles to 2 nitrous helps this problem but still cant keep up with the flow, but seriously who wants to keep tabs on THAT many bottles.

If your only running a 150 shot or something Id say go for it, but remember the dense cold nitrous and higher pressure WILL provide more oxygen than a non-NANO system so your 150 jets might be more like a 175+ so tune accordingly, additional timing retard and more fuel enrichment than you normally would

[Phish]

I plan on running a 200 or 250 shot max. Also, i dont plan on spraying untill its in the hands of a tuner and most likely on a dyno. So the jetting should be worked out on the dyno so i know how much HP i am getting to the wheels with what shot. Sounds like the cooling and actual bottle pressure are the main thing i need to watch with this system. i am sure there is a learnign curve liek anythign else.

[Scott]

I plan on running a 200 or 250 shot max. Also, i dont plan on spraying untill its in the hands of a tuner and most likely on a dyno. So the jetting should be worked out on the dyno so i know how much HP i am getting to the wheels with what shot. Sounds like the cooling and actual bottle pressure are the main thing i need to watch with this system. i am sure there is a learnign curve liek anythign else.

Not a fan of dyno tuning specially with nitrous, Tom Sr at NANO actually volunteered to fly someone here free of charge and tune the nano system on the dyno for me. To which I declined.. dyno's dont load the engine the same way as passes down the track, you cant just take numbers and put them in a calculator then have a magic number.

I could go on and on about nitrous specific stuff but bottom line is you will benefit from it, cold nights you wont need to heat it up and should have too bad of a pressure differential with that small of a shot. Just friendly advice is jet smaller with the nano and pull extra couple degree's than what you normally would, DONT rely on your "magic tuner" to know these things.. ITs your engine keep it in one piece

[AutoMods]

are the stock iron blocks holding up to the 250 shots on a long term basis ?

[Phish]

All good advice. Thanks for the info. glad to see this thread is actually producing results instead of jsut some internet asshattery. It will also be really odd to figure out the jetting since i am also converting to E85. I will hav eto find somthing to start off of with a baseline. Start "safe" and go up from there once the jetting is figured out.

[Scott]

Yep, just be careful with the timing specially. LS engines have a pretty fast burning chamber and usually run total timing down in the low 30 degree's so they're more sensitive to nitrous, nitrous burns extremely fast so you need to need to pull lots of timing.

"Safe" jetting is the correct jetting, its not like a NA or forced induction engine where the rule of thumb that rich is safe. you can hurt a engine running excessively rich or lean. If you are serious about spraying a 250 shot and enriching it with E85 you would be smart to send the kit off or buy it from a company that offers flow testing nitrous. 250 thru a single nozzle is alot and you will see restriction in the solenoid and nozzle at those levels so you might not be getting what you expect. Thats why flow testing is important because they will measure the actual fuel to nitrous ratio with your jets taking into acount the nozzle and solenoid restriction in real life.

[Phish]

are the stock iron blocks holding up to the 250 shots on a long term basis ?

I will be running two stages this year. Nothing huge jsut two seprate stages of 100hp each. I will most likely jsut spray the first stage unless i am at the track and then spray both stages with a 200 shot. It will only see a 250 maybe once a year if that.

Of the two stages one is a nozzle and the other is a plate. The first one will just be WOT and RPM based so i can spray it out of the hole. The other stage will come on with MPH along ith being WOT and RPM based. This way once i get off the line the second stage can come on. Thats the plan anyway


Also, its pretty hit or miss with them holding up. Some gusy say it will take it with out an issue and others say dont spray over a 150 shot. It depends on the tune and the setup itself most likely

[Scott]

2nd stage is usually better off being time based, if you spin the mph goes up and turns on your 2nd stage and it gets much worse

[Phish]

Ah good point. Totally spaced that one off.