Hey, F Body owners

[sparkles]

What are you guys using for rear ends? Chekal, Ed & George, anyone else making enough power to break the stock one. I know DD had a Moser 12 bolt in his, but that's about all I know. Did you buy a complete unit, or did you piece together everything? What did you do for brakes? Where's the best place to look, and what did you guys pay for what you have. Quickperformance isn't too far away from me, and they have a 9 inch kit minus third member and brakes for about a grand.

[Domestic Disturbance]

I know there's usually a nice deal on s60's on tech. Custom length tubes, gears, etc for around $2600 shipped last I looked.

Other than that, I picked my 12 bolt up for 1400. Did a 400 full rebuild at Saddlers to be on the safe side. It was a full abs 4 channel rear, cclip eliminators, and with backing plates. Used factory brakes. Just the moser 12 casting is a lame design for the bolts. Just have to keep an eye open in the for sale section for stuff like that.

[FiFdYnUtZ]

I scored big on a complete moser 9 on tech...I use stock rear brakes for now...ed ran a strange 12 bolt in the Silver car, and george has a moser 9 like mine...keep your eyes peeled on ls1tech classifieds

[Deimos]

Mine was 3800 for the aluminum center section 9 inch 35 spline axles and willwood disc brakes from fountain

[sparkles]

The more reading I do on the S60, the more I'm like "damn, that thing looks tough." Still, the 9" has got to be the most versatile, not to mention the cheapest route.

[Clinical]

3 guys here have done custom fabbed 9"
One guy had a moser 9" when he got his car, none have had any problems - all are just low-high 11 second cars though

[Guch]

Strange 12 bolt. Broke 2 pro-series center sections. Wilwood brakes. 9.30. Going to a spool. S60 looks pretty nice. 9's are pretty bulky with a torque arm.

[AutoMods]

Factory ten bolt is plenty strong for car shows. Just easy on the burnouts when you leave the parking :)

[sparkles]

Thanks for the input, but I'd rather take advice from someone that isn't too stupid to realize they should put in C clip eliminators if they are going through the hassle of building a rear end, especially for drag racing ;) Seriously though, I'm glad your my #1 fan and are so concerned about what I'm doing. Damn things been being worked on for 2 years. Hell, since October of last year till August of this year, I've only had possession of it for 1 week before it went back out to get painted, and for some reason you're butthurt I didn't go through the hassle of doing everything I would need to do to bring a car that isn't even built to drag race, all the way up there, for a 4 hour event, 3 hours away, and start destroying parts and having to find a way to get it home just like everyone else did. Maybe I should start crying and have my thread closed like you did with yours when legitimate questions were being asked about your "roll bar".

[Domestic Disturbance]

The Midwest Chassis fab 9 is a pretty good setup too. Its got the custom torque arm thats relocated and shorter too. Their reputation is amazing too.

[AutoMods]

Thanks for the input, but I'd rather take advice from someone that isn't too stupid to realize they should put in C clip eliminators if they are going through the hassle of building a rear end, especially for drag racing ;) Seriously though, I'm glad your my #1 fan and are so concerned about what I'm doing. Damn things been being worked on for 2 years. Hell, since October of last year till August of this year, I've only had possession of it for 1 week before it went back out to get painted, and for some reason you're butthurt I didn't go through the hassle of doing everything I would need to do to bring a car that isn't even built to drag race, all the way up there, for a 4 hour event, 3 hours away, and start destroying parts and having to find a way to get it home just like everyone else did. Maybe I should start crying and have my thread closed like you did with yours when legitimate questions were being asked about your "roll bar".

relax man. I've never closed a thread out of fear or harassment. Not sure what your talking about there. Eliminators have their downsides on street cars making side loads. i still wouldn't go back in and put eliminators . i'd do 9" ends but thats some more work. If my 10 second, 2800 lb car snaps a 31 spline axle and snaps my caliper and i hit the wall you can say I told I so. Until then I choose the path that was going to be 99% safe and got some work done son and your 10 bolt stayed home... until next year.

[85XR7Project]

Isn't Sparkles car set up more for cornering? Straight lines are cool and all but taking it to the twisties sounds like more fun. Not to mention I doubt it would be worth drag racing it since it's not set up for that just to nut swing.

[Sunny Z]

So lemme get this straight. You want a 9" or S60, but you want to set it up for carving corners? Wouldn't you be more concerned with what types of suspension upgrades are available to make it stick through the corners? Not that I'd know anything about that, .... or F bodies....:lmao:

[FiFdYnUtZ]

Midwest chassis fab 9's are the ducking.shiznizzlebitty nip nack snack if you.have the money

[DustinsDuster]

So lemme get this straight. You want a 9" or S60, but you want to set it up for carving corners? Wouldn't you be more concerned with what types of suspension upgrades are available to make it stick through the corners? Not that I'd know anything about that, .... or F bodies....:lmao:

Apples' Monte runs a 9" and is set up for corners. You can make anything fit with a money-shaped shoehorn.

[APPLES355]

I wasnt going to say anything, but the 9" is a very versatile rearend. I went with the rearend because there was no need to weld to cast iron when changing mounting locations. Right now i have the stock style converging 4-link with future goals of going to a three link setup and the 9" is going to make it an easier transition. Another reason for the 9" is that i was sick of rebuilding the 7.5 because having the 406 and a stick the rearend couldnt hold the power. Probably why sparkles is looking for something stronger. What i dont like about the 9" is that there isnt a real good do it all differential that is reasonably priced. The wavetrac sounds like it is a good differential but you will pay for it because they are around $1000 by themselves. After killing the traclok i went will a spool afterall i dont drive around at slow speed to often and you dont really notice it.

As for handling it probably wont compare to the datsun, but for a car as large as the monte it doesnt do too bad. hopefully i will have more opportunities to hit MAM next year!

[Sunny Z]

I wasn't saying you can't make a 9" handle, I was saying that the goal should be firmly placed in the sights when making decisions. AKA versatility, availability, functionality, upgradability.

I too hope I can make it to MAM several times. Would be tons of fun.

[sparkles]

I wasn't saying you can't make a 9" handle, I was saying that the goal should be firmly placed in the sights when making decisions. AKA versatility, availability, functionality, upgradability.
Hence the purpose of this thread. Don't really know where you were going with that first comment. Great suspension doesn't do any good if your car won't move do to a broken axle, but I'm sure you're aware of that ;)

[OldSkoolRCR]

I dont think you have anything to worry about....you got to make power first to break things!

[Scott]

9" FTW, if you really want to get serious about handling build yourself a adjustable 3-link setup, coilovers with DA shocks, adjustable watts link, nice adjustable sway bar. You could do anything you want with it having control over roll center and anti-squat/anti-dive. if you really want to be fancy you can put on floating calipers so you can control how the braking forces act on the car too..

The 9" is better for this since the 3rd member comes out the front and you can fabricate anything you want on the rear of the housing and not worry about access to the gears and diff

[allgo]

i dont think you have anything to worry about....you got to make power first to break things!

lol!!!!!!

[APPLES355]

Hey scott, you pretty much nailed the suspension on the monte!!! minus the 3 link, but i am hoping that is in the near future.

[Scott]

yeah thats what the circle track car uses is a 3-link, you would need to do alot of clearancing to the car to properly setup a 3 link though I would imagine. You have a triangulated 4 link with a watts linkage?

[APPLES355]

I knew you would ask the question about the 4-link with the watts! The idea behind using both was only acceptable when running a highly compliant upper rubber bushing allowing the watts linkage to overpower the roll center the upper links have. Even with running a poly bushing the rear had a tendency to migrate side to side and even introduced unpredictable handling. The watts linkage with the rubber bushing has made the car more predictable, but its probably not the perfect setup. It works well with what i currently have. I also made some upper control arm relocation brackets because the 9" raised the points up even higher than factory. It put the instant center above the neutral line, a little over a foot in front of the rear tires, and behind the CG. Not much of a lever arm if you ask me! The new brackets made it possible to move the instant center out to around the CG making for a much better lever arm. it didnt really show this last weekend with my old and crappy tires, but the day i made the change it was a night and day difference.

The three link setup would be the best, but to get the upper link the appropriate length the back seat would be no more and i am not sure if i am ready for that. Also, need to be better outfitting with tools to make such a change!

[Scott]

yeah I always thought it was a little weird how people did that watts or panhard with factory 4 links, if it works it works though, cant argue with that!

I think running a spring loaded upper link with a shock like modifieds use would make a road car alot more predictable into and out of the corners with the right settings, even thought about running that on the watts bars to cushion side load shock with low pro tires, even just using a "biscuit style" rubber bushing inline might be worth a shot.. but not with a 4-link combo, thats just asking for problems.

I will say that nascars seem to work really well with trailing arm style suspension, think that coupled with the watts might be worth looking into but still might need alot of clearancing depending on ground clearance

[APPLES355]

I did it to get rid of the lateral movement it had even with stiffer bushings. The 17x10's on the rear are pretty much the largest i could fit without notching the frame. Without the watts the tires would rub under hard cornering because they were 1/2" or less from the frame.

I have also wondered how that spring loaded upper link would work on the street. when i get around to changing to a 3-link i may try it for the fun of it.

There actually is a company that makes a truck arm style suspension for g-bodies, but the only option you have for exhaust is practically open headers! another good idea if you have the room.

I have also thought about selling the suspension i have now and looking into a schwartz performance frame, but i dont have the 24k right now. The only thing i would challenge them on is that there setup is still the 4-link. maybe they would work with me developing the 3-link! This frame was also made to fit 345's!!! i am dreaming right now. dont mind me!

Sorry for hijacking the thread!

[Xboosted23X]

I wasn't saying you can't make a 9" handle, I was saying that the goal should be firmly placed in the sights when making decisions. AKA versatility, availability, functionality, upgradability.

I too hope I can make it to MAM several times. Would be tons of fun.

I just made it to MAM a couple weeks ago and it was a blast. It was my first time on a road course and I'm looking forward to going back. Just make sure your brakes are up for it. And bring lots of fuel.