1g dsm ecu

[sLoWnStEaDy]

looking at a Talon, kid says it needs an ECU becuase the one that he bought is for a manual and the car is an auto. I know the injectors are different but not sure what else...

Point being, wondering if anyone happens to have an ECU I could barrow to slap in it and see what happens. Its a 90, tsi awd, turbo, automatic... Thanks!


319-241-4059

[Sleeping]

I may have one sitting on the shelf. Ill check after work and get back to ya

[sLoWnStEaDy]

OK, just let me know.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

c'mon... one of you DSM guys has to have something laying around! I'll give you a case of beer/pop if ya let me barrow it. If it fixes the issue and makes the car drivable, I'll probably buy it if you want to sell.

[AutoMods]

try brent

[Sleeping]

I found the one I have. #on it are 3057 and E2T34176 Let me know

[sLoWnStEaDy]

shiiiiiit, I have NO IDEA! LOL everything showing up on google for that is a D-50 Mighty Max ECU....

[sLoWnStEaDy]

try brent

Johnston, Wilkerson...? Brent who?

[AutoMods]

brent wilkerson

[Sleeping]

Well was pulled from a 1g dsm and plugs are all the same. More than welcome to try it

[sLoWnStEaDy]

Sleeping... shoot me a text tomorrow if you can. I checked the car out today and it's in pretty good shape. started and ran but not great so I figure its worth a try.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

suppose to be picking this thing up in a few hours. If anyone has Trevors number and could see if he might have one, I'd appreciate it. I lost 90% of my contacts when I got my new phone.


Still not aposed to trying yours, "Sleeping", just need to find one pretty quick now.


Thanks!

[sLoWnStEaDy]

N/M... I did have Trevors number and he doesn't have one...

[Drifte]

auto/manual are the same if I remember right. Auto just has a TCU under the carpet. Could be aftermarket BOV, or ECU needs repaired.

[AutoMods]

check boost/vaccum leaks

[Clinical]

i saw the ad and I thought he said it needed some 450cc injectors for the manual ECU? I don't know much about autos and their ECU's - but if so I do have an extra set of 450cc injectors.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

well, the manual cars run 450cc injectors and the autos run 390cc injectors. the car is an auto (390cc) but the ECU is a manual (450cc) so he was saying that is the problem. I doubt that is actually 100% the issue. here are a couple things I have found thus far...

Greddy BOV is actually installed, WITH the recirculation fitting but it is vented to atmosphere. the stock BOV is still clamped to the factory recirculation pipe coming from the intake and it's just bouncing around under the hood.

He just had a Walbro 255 installed. the fual level gauge does NOT work and there is gas leaking from the back area. I noticed it when I turned right, into a parking spot. it was a pretty noticeable amount of gas, pretty decent trail for 10ft+ and a basketball sized puddle after sitting in the spot for about 20-30 seconds.

The vacuum/boost gauge is not working.

Wiring for the Turbo Timer is done but the turbo timer itself was just sitting on the floor board, not hooked up. Going to double check the wiring before I hook it up!


then I just have to de-rice it a bit. Has some interior parts painted white, some exterior stuff is painted with that color shifting paint shit... Shouldn't be TOO much of a pita to get her all fixed up.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

here she is

[AutoMods]

if the ecu thinks it has 450's but actually has 390's then it will run about 15% lean . you might notice that during idle and cruise. at wot those cars are really rich so 15% leaned out the car would probably run pretty hard and feel good, could be lean enough to start getting some knock but it definitely wouldn't stumble from being lean at wot. 255 fuel pump with a stock fpr is probably being overran making it richer at idle and cruise, stock fpr can probably stay caught up at wot .

sounds like you got quite a few hacks to fix

[sLoWnStEaDy]

yeah, I'm glad its as stock as it is, should make it easier to sort it out! the painted interior and stuff bugs me more than anything! bright ass white "accents", god awful UGLY!! not too bad at all compared to some of the disasters I have unknowingly walked into.

I can't find any dang numbers on the ECU that is in the car. it just has "Python Fuel Injection" warranty guard stickers on it. IDK, shits WEEEAAAK!!!

[Clinical]

yeah I'd first get the ECU/injector situation figured out and also either get an aftermarket FPR or get a 190lph or stock fuel pump - the 255's are known for overrunning the stock FPR like Ryan said.
I'd try to compare my ECU in my GST but I'm sure there are differences since it's FWD.

[Drifte]

well even being the stock regulator is likely unhappy, it will run fine. Mine always did. The seal on the fuel pump to tank is either bad, or he broke all the studs off and cant get it bolted down tight (likely). Use the stock BOV again if you can just for now to straighten out any issues. Open up the ECU, idk what sticker that is but thats scary. Or call that company? OPen it up, see if its EPROM, if it is, order up a keydiver chip from DSMchips.com Order some 450cc injectors from someone and just use a stock tune. 390's would suffice but theirs no point in keeping them. 450's are almost free.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

I THIIIIINK I will start with replacing the ECU

[AutoMods]

if your interested in dsmlink / ecmlink . i can have them fix your shit while you buy the chip. but i think they only work on ecu's for their purchasing dsmlink customers because they are so busy .

but if its just a car your going to flip, might not be worth dropping $400 on dsmlink

[sLoWnStEaDy]

if your interested in dsmlink / ecmlink . i can have them fix your shit while you buy the chip. but i think they only work on ecu's for their purchasing dsmlink customers because they are so busy .

but if its just a car your going to flip, might not be worth dropping $400 on dsmlink

i'm taking it to work tomorrow, Tyler and I are going to get it fixed up. I "plan" to keep this one, at least for a while. I have some ideas floating around, we'll see what happens.

[Clinical]

well even being the stock regulator is likely unhappy, it will run fine. Mine always did. The seal on the fuel pump to tank is either bad, or he broke all the studs off and cant get it bolted down tight (likely). Use the stock BOV again if you can just for now to straighten out any issues. Open up the ECU, idk what sticker that is but thats scary. Or call that company? OPen it up, see if its EPROM, if it is, order up a keydiver chip from DSMchips.com
Unfortunately DSMChips is no longer in business as he doesn't have the time for them. There is someone on DSMTuners now doing the same service though.

If you plan to do anything with it as in beyond 13's I'd highly recommend DSMLink, honestly its one of those things you get and you're like "Wow, why didn't I do this sooner?"

[Drifte]

^for sure. When I finally got the dsmchip I was like damn, why didnt I do this a year ago? things are always changing so you cant always do what you want right away. Same story though when I finally put a tune on the bike...now its when will i get it on the dyno and ditch this base map from the tuner?!

Keith if it was too corroded for too long it probably wont be fixable, at least not easily.

[AutoMods]

^for sure. When I finally got the dsmchip I was like damn, why didnt I do this a year ago? things are always changing so you cant always do what you want right away. Same story though when I finally put a tune on the bike...now its when will i get it on the dyno and ditch this base map from the tuner?!

Keith if it was too corroded for too long it probably wont be fixable, at least not easily.

you mean dsmlink?

[sLoWnStEaDy]

you can tell this is a DSM. Car started out white, hood and front fenders are now covered in black hand prints, smudges and grease/oil.

Got the ECU in, that fixed the stalling and not idling issue. I also got the BOV issue taken care of, I'm still running the Greddy one but it is recirculated now. The car still has ZERO power though! I'd compare it to my first car, 2.3L '88 Mustang convertible with an automatic. Except, the mustang was RWD so it would still do burnouts! HaHaHa The "CEL" is on so I am going to see what that's about hopefully. I have two scanners, hopefully one of them will work.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

got some codes...
13 Intake Air Temp Sensor (in MAF)
14 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
25 Barometric Pressure Sensor (in MAF)

Going to reset it though because I am pretty sure I caused those. i unhooked the MAF while it was running, coolant temp was unhooked when I got it and I think I may have unhooked the TPS at one point too. Kind of a DSM blur right now. LOL

[85XR7Project]

If only it was a manual! Auto is so boring.

[Drifte]

Swap a 2g awd trans in, shift kit, and beat the hell out of it!

SHould be a lot quicker than your old mustang, check for boost leaks too.

[Clinical]

yeah the auto/stall combo has recently proven to be a hell of a setup. The stock 2g auto's are really strong. The 1g autos aren't bad but the 2g's are definitely stronger.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

I unhooked the battery over night. hooked it back up and it wouldn't start for shit. I finally got it to start and then it was idling at 2k for quite a while. I shut it off, restarted it and it started right up and idled around 700~. After running for like 30 seconds or so, the CEL came on again so I checked the codes again and its the same four. So, I guess TPS, MAF and ECTS will be getting replaced, at some point...

[AutoMods]

dsmlink is also good for helping diagnose problems. can let you run with no maf (speed density) or gm maf . both require some other work though. dsmlink can read ect and probably tps data to help diagnose. also can read all check engine lights and reset them and ignore them if desired.

i'd start by getting a new maf. a lot of guys upgrade to the 2g maf anyway

[sLoWnStEaDy]

it came with a 2G MAF, I will probably get around to that this weekend some time. Main issue right now is lawyers and custody battles are NOT cheap. gotta get it going soon though because the CTS has never seen snow and i want to keep it that way!

[Drifte]

make certain its not the ECU. I have had several ECU's throw those same codes and the sensors were fine. The ecu's were all junk.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

make certain its not the ECU. I have had several ECU's throw those same codes and the sensors were fine. The ecu's were all junk.

OK, I will have to change them out and see what happens.

[slow ride]

You can easily test the ECT and TPS with a multimeter. I'm sure it's the ECU and it will probably need to be sent out if it really bad inside. It's easy to replace the caps when everything is still in good condition on the board, but once everything gets eaten up it can be a pain with jumper wires, etc.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

Yeah, we... well, Tyler... Repaired what he could but I think it might be a little too far gone. The kid I got the car from has a good bit of parts that I am suppose to be getting. One of which is an automatic ECU along with a 2G MAF, some wheels, and some random misc. parts... Or, if I ever get the chance to make it up to Waterloo, Sleeping has that one he is going to let me try out.

[sLoWnStEaDy]

Glad I didn't waste a bunch of money. Sleeping gave me an ECU, car runs great now. Still seems to be lacking power but I am going to give it a tune-up and get that fuel leak fixed before i worry too much about it. also seems weird to me that i can not here the fuel pump. I've ran a Walbro 255 in probably 5-6 different cars and could always hear it prime when I turned the key on.

[Sleeping]

Should rewire the fuel pump if not already done

[sLoWnStEaDy]

Not sure if it is done or not. I have to check that out anyways because the fuel gauge doesn't work and there is a leak back there now. Whoever did the "work" on this car was a fucking retard!