03 Civic AC not working

[chayxse]

So, my sister drives an 03 Civic EX. AC went out a couple years ago and it was recharged, but I don't believe that fixed it. It was taken to Randy Kuehl to have it fixed. They "repaired" it for $1500 or so. I'm still looking for the receipt to figure out what we were charged for. It worked for a couple months and now it doesn't work anymore. We tried speaking with them to see if they guarantee their work, and they said it would be another $1500+ to fix it again.

What I'm trying to ask is if anyone knows where I should start to diagnose the problem, or if there is anyone on here with experience with AC systems or with Hondas in general that could help me out.

Thanks.

[CiviC_boY]

Try civicex_1134 he is the go to honda guy on this site..

[Batwood]

It sounds like something is leaking in the system if it worked for a little bit and then quit.
Hopefully they at least put dye in it so the next guy can see where its leaking.
I'd bet it needs a compressor at the worst.

[chayxse]

Well today I had it tested, vacuumed, all that jazz. After pulling the refrigerant, it was still at the recommended amount to be in the system, so there were no leaks. I'm going to check everything to make sure its all plugged in, everything is engaging and working. I checked all relays and they are good.

[AutoMods]

raise a shit storm with them. $1500 is a lot of money not to fix something , thats like half the price of just replacing the car?

You could probably buy every ac component on that car from the junkyard for $300. have them print you out another receipt.

[chayxse]

Yea I know. Luckily I wasn't stupid enough to pay for all this shit. I told them I wanted to see every new and used component they replaced but my sister and mother didn't listen to me about all of it and just went a picked up the car, all while paying $1500 with the A/C blowing slightly cold air.

[Dustin]

If it's up to par on refrigerant. (Not over full not under the specified level. Might want to take a look at the High/low pressure switch, Other than that the only other switch I can think of is the actual ac/heater control switch. You also may want to take a look to see if the compressor clutch is actually engaging or not. Chances are it's not and it might be because of that sensor or a connection issue. Maybe even check the main fuses.

[chayxse]

Main fuses are fine. Where is the High/low switch? If the compressor isnt engaging is the only thing to do is replace it?

Also, I told my sister to do something about it, she said "It's been over a year they won't do anything. And whatever needs to be replaced this time is different then what they replaced the first time"

[Dustin]

Main fuses are fine. Where is the High/low switch? If the compressor isnt engaging is the only thing to do is replace it?

Also, I told my sister to do something about it, she said "It's been over a year they won't do anything. And whatever needs to be replaced this time is different then what they replaced the first time"

Not too familar with that year/body style but I did some quick research. http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/mechanical-problems-technical-chat-8/03-civic-ac-pressure-switch-50044/ The clutch can usually be replaced as long as the pulley moves freely (I am considering it does and the belt is attached) I would do the sensor first then the clutch. If you were going to take a go for it. Ill subscribe and check back here in a few for updates or questions. Hopefully we can figure it out.

[chayxse]

Alright thanks Dustin. I'll check out the switch, as well as the clutch.

[Deimos]

why dont you check your pressures before throwing parts at it? I just had a honda pilot I worked on but they only wanted the compressor, it sucked down for an hour and a half and filled with .53 kg. But man that thing only blows 50 degrees colder. Number one I hate randy kuehl for what they did to my friend and would not refer anyone there but the reason it was 1500 is prolly cuz they did the dryer, flush, orifice tube and/or expansion valve with compressor with warranty so it should have warranty.

[Dustin]

why dont you check your pressures before throwing parts at it? I just had a honda pilot I worked on but they only wanted the compressor, it sucked down for an hour and a half and filled with .53 kg. But man that thing only blows 50 degrees colder. Number one I hate randy kuehl for what they did to my friend and would not refer anyone there but the reason it was 1500 is prolly cuz they did the dryer, flush, orifice tube and/or expansion valve with compressor with warranty so it should have warranty.
:biggthumpup:

If it's up to par on refrigerant. (Not over full not under the specified level. Might want to take a look at the High/low pressure switch, Other than that the only other switch I can think of is the actual ac/heater control switch. You also may want to take a look to see if the compressor clutch is actually engaging or not. Chances are it's not and it might be because of that sensor or a connection issue. Maybe even check the main fuses.

I mentioned checking pressure above in a previous post. I was just letting him know of a few parts that might cause it not to work if the pressure is up to par. I was trying to give him my Shop Honda Service Manual for the Honda Civic EP3 (02-03) in a PDF file. So he can use their diagnostic techniques but I won't be able to get ahold of it until I get home from work.

[chayxse]

I have no intentions on throwing any parts at it until I actually diagnose the problem. Im going to check the pressures, switches, and make sure everything is engaging and go from there.

[SLVR7]

Does the compressor run at all, what are the pressures doing? There is more inputs from the ecm, multiplex control unit, and hvac unit involved with the a/c system. Start with basics and help you through it.

[chayxse]

Check it out today. Compressor wont engage. I'm still diagnosing what is keeping it from engaging.

[SLVR7]

If you jump the a/c comp. relay does the compressor engage?

[chayxse]

Dont know much about AC systems so I have no idea what jumping the relay means.

[86svo9L]

Basically just run a hot wire into the 12v portion of the clutch and see if it engages. This will determine if the clutch is out or if it is something different.

[sparkles]

Very rarely does an electro magnet quit working. Power isn't getting to the clutch to engage it. Whether you have a bad relay or low on refridgerant causing a pressure switch not to send voltage to it. You need to do a simple pressure test of your system to rule that out. Where do you live?

[chayxse]

Car is in Cedar Rapids or Hiawatha depending on time.

[Dustin]

Any updates? It's been hot as crap outside. :angryfire:

[chayxse]

just got a multimeter to check the power to different switches and shit. Haven't felt like being outside in this shit to do anything about it though. I'm beginning to think its one of the pressure switches, but I can't figure out how to test the pressure in the system.

[chayxse]

So, I jumped the relay for the compressor. It clicked on and started blowing cold air. After a minute something sounded like it released a lot of pressure.
I have cross tested relays that work with the relay for the compressor, and it wont come on.

List of whats going on

1. Compressor wont engage
2. Relays are good, jumping it will start compressor.
3. System is full on refrigerant.
4. 2 plugs for relay receive 12v, plug for compressor receives 12v

Does anyone have the tools to test the pressure on the system? I can't figure out how to do it nor do I have the gauges for it.

[SLVR7]

Sounds like you set the pop off valve off. When you jumped the a/c relay was the cooling fan running?

[chayxse]

I just read about the pressure release valve. And it does seem like I set that off. And the fan was running when I jumped it I believe.

[SLVR7]

Check the No. 1 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box

[SLVR7]

If the fuses are good do this.

The heater control panel has a self-diagnostic function. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the following:

Turn the fan switch OFF.

Press the recirculation control switch and the rear window defogger switch.

While holding the both switches down, turn the ignition switch ON (II), then release the both switches. The recirculation indicator and the rear window defogger indicator come on. The recirculation indicator goes off 2 seconds later and the A/C indicator comes on (if so equipped), then the self-diagnostic will begin. About 10 seconds later, the self-diagnostic will finish and the A/C indicator goes off.

If any trouble is found, the recirculation indicator blinks the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) to indicate a faulty circuit or component.

If the system is OK, the recirculation indicator stays off.

[chayxse]

both fuses are good.

[chayxse]

I believe I've narrowed it down to the thermoswitch. I've been reading more forums with people with the same problems and its all been that switch. I'm going to test pressures once more to make sure they are correct, and if they are I am going to replace the switch. Sounds like an easy enough fix.