ford 8.8 rear, ugliest thing I've ever bought [Archive]

AutoMods

11-10-2011, 10:08 PM

Got a 88' thunderbird turbocoupe 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears and traction-lok, 4 bolt disc brakes. Only $75 . Heavy bastard. But surprisingly is suppose to be a bit lighter then the rx7 irs and 80lbs lighter then the mustang irs.

234

I hope this thing is in good enough condition. Don't know much about rears but I'd imagine a lot of these junkyard 8.8's aren't pretty looking.

Plan is to use the 3.55 gear ratio out of it. Reuse the housing, tubes maybe the calipers and brakes. Ditch the 28 spline traction-lok and 28 spline axles. Swap the explorer 31 spline traction-lok in and get some forged 31 spline axles.

Here is the rx7 , solid rear swap kit I have yet to buy http://grannys.tripod.com/solidaxle.htm

c_mart_28

11-11-2011, 12:06 AM

Its amazing what a little paint can do..

Nice pick up..that will make a lot of difference once squared away.

allgo

11-11-2011, 08:51 AM

i got a 31 spline spool for you

85XR7Project

11-11-2011, 09:44 AM

Pretty good deal if you ask me.

black88gt

11-11-2011, 10:02 AM

Good deal for TC setup.

Nice to have tlock, discs, and 355s already

civicex_1134

11-11-2011, 10:58 AM

Does this mean nasty wholeshots are on there way?

AutoMods

11-11-2011, 12:09 PM

i got a 31 spline spool for you

Do you know the length of those axles? I need the 79-93's fox body length, 29.188"

Does this mean nasty wholeshots are on there way?

Yes, probably still won't launch as hard as Casey does, at least at first, but at least I won't be worried about my rear breaking anymore. I'd be happy with 1.5's. Everything in the rear and driveshaft will be pretty strong for my light car. Next weakest link is the t56 tranny itself, probably the 28 spline output shaft. But that is strong enough that I'm not going to worry about it. Also a much needed 3.55 gear instead of the 4.10 is going to be great.

c_mart_28

11-11-2011, 12:39 PM

I'd think a 1.5 60' should be entirely possible.

Think I launch hard now? Just wait until I have traction control :) 6k 2-step all day!

allgo

11-11-2011, 02:21 PM

axles are junk

snickerlicker

11-11-2011, 02:53 PM

Turbo coupe axles are .75" longer then 79-93 Foxbody ones. 93 Cobra's used the longer T/C axles. Housings are the same length, but due to the caliper mounts of the disc brakes meant longer axles. Aftemarket make a different caliper mount that allows you to use the foxbody axles if you want. It's what I did on my foxbody when I put the 94-04 Cobra brakes on it.

civicex_1134

11-11-2011, 02:57 PM

Next years gonna be a GOOD year...... goodluck to all in there projects. Cant wait!

AutoMods

11-11-2011, 03:07 PM

axles are junk

Ohh, I see that you said spool. Thought you said axles. I'd rather not run a spool if I don't have to. You guys think the ford traction-lok diff with carbon plates is good enough?

snickerlicker

11-11-2011, 03:40 PM

Should be ok, locker is better, but noisy..

DustinsDuster

11-11-2011, 07:23 PM

Ohh, I see that you said spool. Thought you said axles. I'd rather not run a spool if I don't have to. You guys think the ford traction-lok diff with carbon plates is good enough?

i could try and hunt down the guy i bought my diff from on ebay. he rebuilds the stock trak-loks with 8 clutches instead of 6, and can pretty much set the tension to whatever you wanted. he builds them up case by case, instead of just having them lying around. i dont think mine was even $200 with all new parts and bearings pressed on. had it on my doorstep in about a week.

AutoMods

11-11-2011, 08:10 PM

well let me know if you find him, i'll take a look. not sure whats best as far as using more plates or carbon plates, etc

AutoMods

12-08-2011, 10:15 PM

stripped this rear down, cut most of the brackets off. Pretty simple rear, fun to work on. The oil was pretty gritty inside but the gears look good. I'm going to buy all new bearings. I did some test sandblasting and I think the rear will look nice after painted.

bought a brand new oem ford 03/04 cobra 31 spline trac-loc lsd with carbon clutches for $175. I love this ford stuff, so cheap. I sold a 350z OS Giken lsd a few months ago for $1500! Sure the OS is more high tech but I know there is another rx7 running this ford lsd in the low 9's and loves it.

I ordered up the Granny's mount kit too, that takes a few weeks to ship.

Still need to get fox length 31 spline forged axles, 5 lug. If you know of anyone selling some, let me know.

AutoMods

12-08-2011, 10:22 PM

what are you guy's opinions on the rear covers. Do i need to buy one of those aluminum ford covers that have bearing braces?

Also is stocking with c-clips ok. I really don't think my light car will break a 31 spline axle and if it ever does I have disc brakes as a little more insurance that the axle wont come off.

BGjohnson

12-09-2011, 06:54 PM

I'm not scared of running C clip axles in my 408.

9 inch ends are the only way to go if you do eliminate the c clips. C clip eliminators always leak, kinda ghetto if you ask me.

carbon Clutch disks will work, just keep an eye on the fluid. You will see a ton of clutch material, might have to rebuild it every year or two.

I do have a rear aluminum cover/ main brace. Good insurance, cheap enough, keeps the mains from twisting and keeps the case from warping. I would just make sure it works with your conversion kit. Then do about 4 healthy welds on each axle tube.

The rear really should be trouble free with a car as light as yours, even with the power.

Reiketsukan

12-11-2011, 10:37 AM

Nice upgrade! I'll be keeping my eye on this thread.

AutoMods

12-12-2011, 02:48 PM

should i go with axles for press in wheel studs or screw in ?

stangvortech

12-12-2011, 07:22 PM

I would get a rear cover for sure. I would get the frpp one. call toulsey ford for ford parts at 10% over cost. that is whre I get all my parts.

AutoMods

12-12-2011, 08:15 PM

I can get one of these for $128 shipped, was hoping to get away with a stock cover though if possible

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/TFS-8510500.jpg

stangvortech

12-12-2011, 08:23 PM

yea, that will work I would not run a stock one with your power.

Domestic Disturbance

12-12-2011, 08:40 PM

I had a moser one on my 12 bolt. It was purday and blinging, but I had nothing but headaches with those main cap braces. Said to torque them to 5ft lbs, and even busted out an electronic snap on to do it with. Took it off later and one of the braces had shattered. Not sure if it was ferrite or what, but made me nervous about the new ones.

BGjohnson

12-17-2011, 01:34 PM

Go with screw in studs, they put less stress on the hub than press in. Plus, easier to change if you break one.

The trickflow you showed is the exact one I have. Has holes for an axle brace if you ever need one.

Scott

12-17-2011, 02:01 PM

Id recomend getting a cover for it, DONT over tighten the cap "support" screws or you can break the caps in side the diff

K-ville

12-17-2011, 02:58 PM

id say pull the tubes out replace them with moly weld them in with ford 9 inch ends on them and braces end to end... but i like to go overkill hints why i it takes me 10 years to build a car!

Scott

12-18-2011, 03:44 PM

id say pull the tubes out replace them with moly weld them in with ford 9 inch ends on them and braces end to end... but i like to go overkill hints why i it takes me 10 years to build a car!

Very true, I think all that is over kill for his project but it definetly wouldnt hurt anything by doing it that way. At least have the stock axle tubes welded if you havent done that already.

K-ville

12-18-2011, 09:47 PM

Very true, I think all that is over kill for his project but it definetly wouldnt hurt anything by doing it that way. At least have the stock axle tubes welded if you havent done that already.

no doubt over kill at this point never know what your gunna do in the future... least thats what im always thinkin haha

AutoMods

12-28-2011, 07:07 PM

what bearing rebuild kits do you recommend or any to stay away from ?

Scott

12-29-2011, 05:06 PM

Dont think it matters a whole lot, I've generally just had sadler set-up the gears and supply the bearings/races. Im pretty sure they are mostly Timken brand no matter where you order them from

stangvortech

12-29-2011, 05:14 PM

I like frpp stuff again for the kits. I have got 3 of them and never had a problem.

AutoMods

01-15-2012, 05:33 PM

I pulled the axle bearings out with a slide hammer , they broke apart. are my bearings repair/offset bearings????

I don't recall a normal bearing having circlips in them. I think they are smaller than a normal bearing and the seals look different too. I'm going to get some new bearings soon to compare them to. It also looks like there is still a sleeve or race remaining in the axle.

And if they are offset/repair bearings. Do I need to do anything special to remove the remaining portion.

passenger side
http://importevolution.com/temp/axle/axle_9548_small.jpg

drivers side
http://importevolution.com/temp/axle/axle_9558_small.jpg

Deimos

01-15-2012, 05:36 PM

I would use a torch and snap ring pliers myself and the answer is yes they sell offset bearings that go right on

JustinS

01-16-2012, 01:20 PM

More updates? Put Jacob to work on it.

AutoMods

01-16-2012, 02:07 PM

i got the axle bearings out last night, yea in the pictures above they weren't all out yet. just the bearing internals popped out but now the outer races are out with lots of slide hammer effort. I'll make jacob scotch brite everything and sweep and mop the floor now.

I'm still waiting on some pieces of the grannys conversion kit to come in, mainly just the torque arm and adjustable lower links are due in. Then I can order my forged axles and master rebuild bearing/gasket kit

this is what i got so far. threw the ford 03/04 cobra lsd into the picture also
http://www.importevolution.com/temp/axle/parts.jpg

here is what i'm suppose to get

http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/2TASAkit2500w.jpg

assembled
http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/TASA8500w.jpg

good thing i ordered during the winter as its still been a 45 day wait. spring time would've been a nightmare

AutoMods

01-16-2012, 07:27 PM

Dont think it matters a whole lot, I've generally just had sadler set-up the gears and supply the bearings/races. Im pretty sure they are mostly Timken brand no matter where you order them from

Thats a good idea scott. I didn't think of it, but that makes sense that sadler can setup the gears. I was going to try it myself with the diy youtube videos but seems like I got a lot on my plate with this rear end swap and forged motor projects. Plus sadler said they will get it all nice and clean with their hot tank and install and shim all the gears and bearings for $175 .

Deimos

01-16-2012, 07:40 PM

thats now bad, but on the same token thats 175 out of your own pocket.

harodavid

01-16-2012, 11:18 PM

AutoMods

01-16-2012, 11:27 PM

you should hit the twins up to get the axle tubes welded up. chris just bought a special rod to weld it up with.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150585368725704.672461.715635703&type=3&l=1d5097f9f2 this link will show the work he did to mine.

is it special filler rod needed because of the cast iron housing? do people just do some spot welds too or do they usually go all the way around like that?

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386360_10150989832505704_715635703_21826172_938183 474_n.jpg

harodavid

01-17-2012, 01:59 AM

yes special rod... all of the way around and the plugs that hold them in now is what they recomend doing... i just had him do the axle tube to center on mine though cuz my car isnt going to see any serious hp but dont want to take chances....

harodavid

01-17-2012, 02:00 AM

chris said the rod at his cost is like $200 pd

Mike@Salkowski-Motorsport

01-17-2012, 02:26 AM

get some super missile rod and let chris tig it.

AutoMods

09-10-2012, 12:51 PM

props to the twins-chris and steve for doing the final welding/fab work on my rear and same day service too. started doing it myself, but being this is a safety issue, I thought I better have a professional run the final beads. I will leave my tests welds to other areas that cant kill me if they fail .

watts link bracket, they had to weld over some of my imperfect welding

http://importevolution.com/temp/rx7/ford_rear1.jpg

below they boxed in my shock/lower link mounts to handle casey martin style clutch drops. axle is getting pretty clean now after sandblasting

http://importevolution.com/temp/rx7/ford_rear2.jpg

here is what most people normally leave it at, unboxed and no gussets (pic is from kit manfufacturer's website)

http://grannys.tripod.com/TASAinstructions6.jpg

they welded my axle tubs
http://importevolution.com/temp/rx7/ford_rear3.jpg

so this project is taking a lot longer then expected, lots of measuring, grinding, drilling, welding etc. I want my car to be able to sit low so I had to do some cutting and grinding, banging in a few select areas where the top of the diff and the watts links hit under full suspension travel. Now sadler has the rear end for a week to install the gears, shims and bearings . After that I have to install it, align it, make the watts link arms, get a custom driveshaft made, build an exhaust around it and route the fuel lines around it, reinstall the gas tank.

:( too much work to do before the shootout

snickerlicker

09-10-2012, 12:57 PM

Them Mexicans do good work!

FiFdYnUtZ

09-10-2012, 03:11 PM

Do them messicans make you feel yooooooung?

AutoMods

09-14-2012, 12:17 PM

sadler hot tanked the rear and installed all new bearings, new cobra lsd with carbon discs, 3.55 gears, moser 31 spline axles. converted the companion flange to a conventional flange for 1350 u-joints . and they slapped some paint on it. its ready for some abuse, not sure my clutch is though.

before
http://iowaautoforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=234&d=1320984464

after
http://importevolution.com/temp/rx7/ford_rear4.jpg

Drifte

09-14-2012, 12:35 PM

looks good. no fancy shiny diff cover?

Mike@Salkowski-Motorsport

09-15-2012, 03:09 AM

it needs c-clip eliminators to be nhra legal I believe.

AutoMods

09-15-2012, 08:46 AM

it needs c-clip eliminators to be nhra legal I believe.

I don't want to run eliminators. i wanted to keep things simple so i didn't want to mess with 9" ends . but come to find out there are a couple people around here that could've put 9" ends on for me. i'll run this setup on the car for a while and maybe in the future I might see about narrowing it and doing 9" ends.

does the track ever inspect for the c-clip axles ? i do have disc brakes and I don't think I'll break 31 spline axles so I'm not worried about the safety part.

Mike@Salkowski-Motorsport

09-15-2012, 08:58 AM

Looks nice

Mike@Salkowski-Motorsport

09-15-2012, 09:05 AM

Did you do anything different to the motor this year?

AutoMods

09-15-2012, 09:42 AM

Did you do anything different to the motor this year?

I have a geniii lq4 iron 6.0 block, forged internals, arp etc that slow ride and I worked on this spring and some ported heads. its basically ready but i have to pull my ls1 out of my car and move the cam and accessories and valvetrain parts over.

at this point i still have to button up the rear end project and several other little things. been busy with work too. so to be sure that I am ready for the iaf shootout, I may just leave the ls1 in it for this year.

K-ville

09-15-2012, 04:24 PM

AutoMods

09-15-2012, 05:43 PM

Do your self a favor and get rid of the c-clips now and be done with it. Axle splines wont make c-clips any stronger. They are sketchy when they break. I was in a fox that broke one in second gear and we both bout crapped our pants when it happen.

you broke the axle or the c-clip? i thought i read the c-clips aren't in the stressed area of the axle . when I started my build thread i asked if i'd be ok with c-clips, nobody says anything. now the rear is done and everyone is adamant about getting rid of c-clips .

Larsons Fox

09-15-2012, 06:53 PM

you broke the axle or the c-clip? i thought i read the c-clips aren't in the stressed area of the axle . when I started my build thread i asked if i'd be ok with c-clips, nobody says anything. now the rear is done and everyone is adamant about getting rid of c-clips .

Idk I always thought the c-clips will break before the axle does. I will be testing mine out with ET streets if I can get my car running next week.

K-ville, I hope that wasn't that rear end I got off of you...

sparkles

09-15-2012, 06:57 PM

Haha, we're gonna find out!

K-ville

09-15-2012, 09:44 PM

sorry i never read you were leaving it clipped or i would have spoke up sooner. The car I was in (which wasnt mine or the rear from mine haha) was a 347 with a 100 shot on a wideopen sensor and when he hit second gear the car made a big bang sound and headed for the ditch when he got it stopped we got out and the tire was shredded from rubbing the wheel well but thanks to rolled lips it didnt blow out. the fact the car was lowered is the only thing that kept the axle from coming completly out of the car. when he fixed it it got all new parts even though the axle looked okay just a broken c-clip

sparkles

09-15-2012, 11:06 PM

Sorry Ryan, we just figured you do enough internet reading to know the basics ;)

AutoMods

09-16-2012, 12:29 AM

didn't allgo run mid 8's with his 31 spline c-clipped axles ?

Sorry Ryan, we just figured you do enough internet reading to know the basics ;)

those darn guys at 3rdgen.org steered me the wrong way. looking back, i don't think 99% of those guys have enough power to break axles.

snickerlicker

09-16-2012, 07:43 AM

didn't allgo run mid 8's with his 31 spline c-clipped axles ?

those darn guys at 3rdgen.org steered me the wrong way. looking back, i don't think 99% of those guys have enough power to break axles.

No he had, and still has c-clip eliminators. Honestly I think you will be fine with the 31 spline c-clip axles, the LSX probably doesn't make enough power to beak them... :)

sparkles

09-16-2012, 09:12 AM

didn't allgo run mid 8's with his 31 spline c-clipped axles ?

those darn guys at 3rdgen.org steered me the wrong way. looking back, i don't think 99% of those guys have enough power to break axles.

Lol, you must not have been at Eddyville a couple weeks ago then.

K-ville

09-16-2012, 10:12 AM

You have to draw the line somewhere though.. i mean ive seen/heard of old nmra cars running into the low 8s on 33splines with c-clips and 4lugs. So can it be okay?.. yes. Will it be okay for sure?.. no. So is it worth the risk?.. not to me!

AutoMods

09-16-2012, 11:38 AM

going back, i would've just done 9" ends. maybe next year i'll go back in and get'er done.

but for discussions sake..... since the splines come after the c-clip, i believe c-clips only are stressed during side loads not acceleration. Aren't track cars producing a lot of side load like the gt500 using c-clip axles from the factory?

http://image.chevyhiperformance.com/f/9193623+w750+st0/0605ch_13_c_clip_axle_arrangement_z.jpg

FiFdYnUtZ

09-16-2012, 12:32 PM

Guess you'll just have to find out the hard way, or they might hold up fine...kind of like spraying the farm down, some hold it, some don't...

snickerlicker

09-16-2012, 01:49 PM

Usually the axle twists and breaks before the c-clip in everyone I've seen break.

Scott

09-17-2012, 08:15 AM

Drifte

09-17-2012, 08:24 AM

Ryan doesnt like his quarter panels anyway. But his disc brakes will hold it together.

AutoMods

09-17-2012, 09:32 AM

C-clips only see a load when cornering, if you break a C-clip its probably because you slid into a curb or something.. but if you break your axle for any reason, and your running drum brakes, the entire wheel and axle will come out of the rear end and mess stuff up. if you have disc brakes it acts like a c-clip eliminator and will at least hold the axle in the housing. Moral of the story, especially with a stick shift, either have c-clip eliminators or disc brakes if you like your quarter panels

pretty much what i read. some people say the calipers aren't designed for side load. some people say they've heard or seen the calipers break. or the axle breaking can cause the caliper to apply braking and make the car swerve.

and on the other hand, the shop that sold me the rear end conversion kit went as far as to say the nhra should've have the c-clip eliminator rule if the car has disc brakes. my oem calipers look pretty beefy. but i suppose you have to make rules for everyone as some run lightweight racing calipers that might not hold up.

AutoMods

09-18-2012, 01:08 PM

What kind of driveshaft yokes are you guys running. I was looking at this one http://www.moserengineering.com/other-parts/yokes/powerglide-27-spline-1350-series.html . A lot of people say Mark Williams but they are over $200

Scott

09-18-2012, 01:55 PM

Mark Williams is nice stuff!! think Im just running the moser one though and it holds up okay.. the housing is a different story, just found out mine is twisted pretty bad.
Put these sticks in the ladderbars brackets to show how twisted it is. Even with ladder bars you should be running a strong ARB with a high powered car.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg178/427fogger/2012-09-17_20-19-57_745.jpg
Heres how much it twisted
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg178/427fogger/2012-09-17_20-19-46_389.jpg

allgo

09-18-2012, 02:39 PM

I have a mark williams one..and a mark williams carbon fiber driveshaft..shit is top notch

K-ville

09-18-2012, 08:09 PM

Strange yoke like 185 and pst chromoly shaft for me.

AutoMods

09-25-2012, 02:21 PM

My old irs pinion nose was a lot longer than the 8.8 nose. so i had to get a longer custom driveshaft made. hope i measured correctly. sadler did it in 2 days. $300 cost

old aluminum one (came from a c4 corvette) , 12 pounds
new steel one 35.25 inches , 1350 joints, moser yoke, 17.2 pounds

AutoMods

09-25-2012, 02:34 PM

Mark Williams is nice stuff!! think Im just running the moser one though and it holds up okay.. the housing is a different story, just found out mine is twisted pretty bad.
Put these sticks in the ladderbars brackets to show how twisted it is. Even with ladder bars you should be running a strong ARB with a high powered car.

Heres how much it twisted

that twisting is pretty crazy, its the tubes that are twisted right? As far as ARB, are you talking about the cover or that bracing you have?

Scott

09-25-2012, 04:19 PM

that twisting is pretty crazy, its the tubes that are twisted right? As far as ARB, are you talking about the cover or that bracing you have?

yeah its the tube itself, all the twisting is within about 1.5" of the axle tube. If you can imagine the force it takes to twist a axle tube about 3 degree's in that small of length! I consider myself very lucky I did not run the car again, it was a few passes away from actually twisting a axle tube in half and no c-clip eliminator is gonna save ya from that

When I say ARB Im talking about a anti-roll bar, there is alot of different forces going on with a ladder bar equipped rear ends that is tough to explain with only text but it is ALOT more than a rear suspension setup like a 4-link, 3 link, torque arm, etc type.

Im going to try and get some pics of the new 8.8 build, going with 3" axle tubes instead of the 2.8" and going .25 wall thickness.. H+W has the tubes already removed from the pumpkin, sandblasted, magnafluxed to make sure theres no cracks.

Put the new axle tubes in the lathe to turn them down to fit in the pumpkin, making custom brackets and some fancy bracing.. Not sure you could make a stronger 8.8 than this one!

AutoMods

10-09-2012, 12:46 PM

do these cobra carbon lsd discs need a break in ??? just trying to get the car rolling again by this weekend

Scott

10-09-2012, 02:04 PM

Anything with friction disc's act differently after the surface finish is worn off them and the clearances change. I would avoid doughnuts and one legged burnouts if you can help it so it doesnt make too much heat in there.. but no I have never put them thru a "break-in" session, but then again I dont really break in engines either..

AutoMods

10-17-2012, 05:45 PM

Well, I built a whole new exhaust around the new rear. and routed new fuel lines around the rear too. Its finally ready to roll, two days before the shootout :( hope there are no surprises

How am I suppose to set the length of the left and right lower links? Measure the links and make them the same length or just eye it and center the tires in the wheel well ?????

http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/TASA8500w.jpg

Sunny Z

10-17-2012, 06:01 PM

How am I suppose to set the length of the left and right lower links? Measure the links and make them the same length or just eye it and center the tires in the wheel well ?????

Yes.

sparkles

10-17-2012, 06:16 PM

Get a freakin tape measure.

AutoMods

10-17-2012, 08:05 PM

i can measure and it will probably be quite close. but its possible the mounts aren't perfectly equally spaced on each side of the subrame . also the lower link mounts on the axle were also positioned by me and welded. probably very close with my precision measuring skills but again might not be perfect. i by no means did a hack job but stuff could be off by 1/8" here and there. what about measuring the distance from the front wheel to the rear wheel.

slow ride

10-17-2012, 08:55 PM

Just take measurments all around like you said above and compare.

I'd get a few miles on that thing asap to make sure no gremlins pop up ;)

Drifte

10-18-2012, 07:46 AM

I think you have the idea. All you can do is measure from as many good sources you have.

Scott

10-18-2012, 10:09 AM

Make sure you do some homework on the pinion angle, you get that pointed wrong way and you can get nasty vibration. As far as squaring the rear end I dont know anything about that car but generally you get it centered within the frame or body, find the center of the front hubs, find center of rear hubs, make a chassis center line and then I will make a mark with a center punch somewhere on the car for future reference, and then make sure your rear end is perpendicular to the center line.. many ways to find that but Im sure you can figure that part out, simple geometry

Scott

10-18-2012, 10:13 AM

I do all this by getting the car level and hanging plumb bobs then marking on the ground with masking tape and pen or just a sharpie and measuring to those..

I have also been guilty "on a drag car that hasnt been wrecked" to just center it in the wheel well and call it a day, test it and see if it goes straight. alot of high HP cars will not have the rear end aimed perfectly perpendicular to the C/L on purpose

AutoMods

10-18-2012, 10:33 AM

great info, thanks scott

Scott

10-18-2012, 10:43 AM

great info, thanks scott

no prob, if it was my car and assuming the wheels were centered before and it drove well I would just center them in the wheel well to save you time. honestly you will probably not be carrying the front wheels for 100+ft on the edge of traction so you should have time to correct it if it does pull a little to the side.. Like I said pinion angle I would consider most important cuz adjusting that will change wheel base too and you might end up chasing your tail a little bit

AutoMods

01-15-2013, 12:43 PM

I have some noise under light braking. sounds like brake moan and seems to be from the passenger side only. It was really load and annoying initially after the 8.8 install but after I replaced the caliper it went away . recently a little of the noise has came back but nearly as bad. seems to occur after the car has been driven for a bit, maybe after the rotors get up to temp. only occurs under low speeds and light braking like right before car gets stopped when coming up to a stop sign. goes away immediately if i press on the brake harder or let go of the brake.

you guys think this is something that an anti-moan bracket might help

here is what my caliper adapter looks like, which allows me to run rx7 brakes
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/miataracer/newrearpics008.jpg

picture of an anti moan bracket (not installed on my car)
http://1985mustanggt.com/Misc/SN95_Cobra_Anti-Moan-Modified.jpg

Mike@Salkowski-Motorsport

01-15-2013, 12:49 PM

Check your axle bearings

Drifte

01-15-2013, 12:52 PM

I was also thinking axle bearings.

AutoMods

01-15-2013, 01:11 PM

well, axle bearings are brand new installed by Sadler. I removed the old bearings and threw them away before sadler got it so they had to put new in.

snickerlicker

01-15-2013, 01:24 PM