My Junk

[Clinical]

Just making a new thread for my laser.
I'd like to keep this thread a bit cleaner.. I got rid of the last one because it had 4 pages worth of garbage from what I'll call 'typical winter BS' and a bunch of offtopic conversations in it lol.

---
Anyway as most know.. 1992 Laser RS-T AWD, piece of junk!

Got it needing a lot of maintenance done, broke up really bad whenever trying to get into it, pushed coolant, boost leaks, tune was really (and still is) sloppy.

Fixed most of it, raised the boost and fine tuned it as best as I could being unfamiliar with link 2.5 and E85 tuning in general. Ran 11.7@123mph. Popped the headgasket the week after the track.

Took it under the knife to replace the headgasket, and do some new mods, fix some more things, and overall clean the car up a bit.

Things recently done:
Some misc changes with the shitty exhaust setup
Downpipe 3-2bolt conversion
Internal Gate->Tial 38mm External (Thanks to Import Evolution for my new high pressure top and new springs!)
Factory Style/Modified Recirc'd o2 housing-> Punishment Racing o2 Housing /w Open Dump for 38mm Wastegate
Stock overcrushed 1g bov-> Tial Q BoV (Thanks TAB Fab for a GREAT welding job!)
Head resurfaced and hot tanked
Valve Job / New Valve Seals
New Gates Timing Belt
All new timing hardware
New Cometic MLS Headgasket
All new upper end gaskets(intake manifold /exhaust manifold/etc)
All new turbo gaskets
New exhaust manifold studs/nuts.
Cleaned injectors and installed new orings/seals

Things on to do list/ wishlist:
Twin Disc clutch(probably not going to happen... just too expensive at this point)
If I do get a new clutch it'll probably be an ACT2900. I'm really nervous about the 2600 handling 500+whp.. I don't care if it goes after the car is tuned, but I really don't want it to start slipping on the dyno.
Kiggly Springs, or some other strong valve springs I have BC springs/retainers which are known for being an upgrade from stock.. However I wouldn't want to take them to 9k, although some people do. The most mine will ever see is 8.5k and that'll only be at the track if the turbo is still making power there on the dyno. I would of done springs if I had realized I was going to have the extra money I have now when the head was off. but I'm still waiting to decide on buying a clutch or not.
Turbo Would really like a better turbo. The FPGreen is great but I know I'm severely pushing its limits, they're only rated for high 400's low 500's from what I've seen.
Exhaust Manifold Have almost bought like 3 of the FP Race manifolds now... just a money thing really since my 2g is well ported and in good shape.
Drag Radials/Slicks This is going to be my biggest obstacle, traction. I just don't have the funds to buy both a full set of wheels and then radials/slicks.. However I have a friend with 4 brand new drag radials that were ran just a couple of passes on his DSM however they are for 15" wheels and I can't find any 15" used wheels for cheap that'll fit a DSM and really don't want to drop $500+ on some wheels and another chunk on the tires too. I guess we'll see if my money keeps going as good as it is now and my tax return is good.. this is really #1 priority, next to my clutch

Of course theres a bunch more things here and there.
I'd like to try to pop a few of the bigger dents out to make it look nicer, a black or carbon hood as mine is really tore up, junking that nasty red interior for some nice black leather although I'm trying to keep weight down so if anything I'd like to pull the carpet and replace it with black carpeting and remove the sound deadening material, and put in some lightweight black racing seats however considering I already have one red Corbeau seat, it probably won't happen.
Also would like to fix my damn door locks!! I hate not being able to lock my car. If anyone has some spare lock cylinders with key for both doors let me know!!


And there's still more little things. I'm slowly doing small things here and there, like fixing interior pieces, cleaning up the engine bay a bit when I see the chance to, etc.

Anyway the car finally fired up again last weekend and after fixing a severe oil leak, it's doing okay. Still need to fix an exhaust leak.

Also for some reason ever since we got my car back together my stereo hasn't worked and now sometimes my brake light on my dash will stay on. Sometimes I'll start it up, and if it doesnt come on it'll stay off unless the e-brake is up. Other times it'll start up with the light on and stay on all the time. Never used to do that.

Been daily driving it aside from work lately just to drive it. It sure hates these cold morning e85 starts!! I haven't gotten on it yet, my exhaust leak is throwing off my wideband and I dont have the dump tube on, although I can put it on whenever I want really.

So far it's running pretty damn good. Drives good, nice not having to empty my overflow after every drive :)

Anyway, necessary pics:
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/C1inical/IMG_1058.jpg
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/C1inical/IMG_1062.jpg


Nothing too special.. I need to find some time to clean it up, and take it out and see if there's any angle I can take a picture of it that it'll look halfway decent. Still currently is all dusty, covered in crap here and there from sitting for 2 months.

Once it gets warmer I'm just spraying the wheels black, I got them with the tires for $75 from Andy, so I'm not too concerned about them. I would like some Evo 8's again sometime... I loved my old ones.

Here's a vid of the car not wanting to start at all with no exhaust, stale E85, dead battery, etc etc after sitting for 2 months when I first got it back together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt432CPl ... r_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt432CPlIbU&feature=player_embedded)



Engine Bay Picture:
http://i56.tinypic.com/awqruf.jpg

Still needs a lot of cleaning up

[Xboosted23X]

Myself and slo4cyl both had 2900s and had issues with them. I would try to find something else. Look for a used TD.
My old talon also had the brake light stay on sometimes. It wasn't all the time, but it was annoying.
Looks good. Hopefully it will run better for you.

[Drifte]

If the brake light stays on replace the switch under the pedals, or screw it out some if the pedal is sagging.

Car looks pretty good, I'd like to see some really good pics of it all cleaned up, pain appears to be fine. Any rust on it? After slow4cyl switched from the cheapest lightest clutch setup I could find for him ( which was a 2900 w/ unsprung 4 puck) he ran some of his best times on that twin. The 4puck wasnt an issue, just the 2900 on a 1g doesnt work well. It requires pretty extensive clutch pedal modification to get the necessary throw. I would use 2600 or less, and spec makes twins as well, and usually has lower prices. It's not tried and true parts though, I dont actually know anyone to have ever purchased a spec twin.

[TbTalon94]

I don't think he ran any good times with that 2900. He switched to a used TWIN and ran his best time to date...1/8th mile, but also did a 2-3-2 shift.


_______________________________________________
<-AFTER he switched from the 2900 he ran his best times.>

[Clinical]

If the brake light stays on replace the switch under the pedals, or screw it out some if the pedal is sagging.

Car looks pretty good, I'd like to see some really good pics of it all cleaned up, pain appears to be fine. Any rust on it? After slow4cyl switched from the cheapest lightest clutch setup I could find for him ( which was a 2900 w/ unsprung 4 puck) he ran some of his best times on that twin. The 4puck wasnt an issue, just the 2900 on a 1g doesnt work well. It requires pretty extensive clutch pedal modification to get the necessary throw. I would use 2600 or less, and spec makes twins as well, and usually has lower prices. It's not tried and true parts though, I dont actually know anyone to have ever purchased a spec twin.
Doesn't really have any typical rust, but it does have a spec of rust here and there.
The paint is actually pretty crappy. I somehow not even trying managed to take decent pics of it.
The back end by the gas door is horrible with cracks and looks like it was in a wreck at some point, looks like there was bondo work there too.
Front bumper has a ton of paint chipping. Passenger quarter has some big dents. Hood is pretty crappy too.

Overall it's basically exactly what I'd expect the typical 18-19 year old car to look like. I've seen a ton cleaner DSM's and a ton worse.

Sounds like I'll definitely avoid the 2900.
I suppose I'll just keep my eyes out for a used twin disc for a good price, or a good deal on a new one. I definitely can't afford to drop 900-1k on a new one.

[Sleeping]

I had Quarter Master I sold to slo4cyl. Best clutch I had in my talon. It makes noise being a twin disk but never has anything perform better. Some complain about the pedal but I had no problems. If I remember right when I bought it new it was just under $1000. Only reason got rid of it was I parted the car out.

[Clinical]

Well so I had a problem last night while driving it.
In general it hasn't ran that great and doesn't like to idle on its own in the morning at all.

We were driving a ways out of town and I went around a corner and pushed the clutch in and it stalled (actually happens here and there but this was different) and ALL lights went off, hardly had any power.. Just enough to move the seat belts.

Some screwing with the battery terminals and the power came back. However after that the car would simply not idle at all on its own, driving 65 on the highway it still ran smooth however between shifts it would buck and try to pull back as if it wanted to die and would simply not idle on its own. It would only idle on its own during a cold start for some reason, it would struggle but it would idle enough to warm up and once at operating temp would stall as soon as you weren't giving it any gas.

Today I took it to my friend's work to put it on the lift and fix all the other little issues. Fixed a rattle from the engine bay I had by just welding the old internal gate flapper's rotating arm to the housing, fixed my two exhaust leaks at the downpipe, and hopefully fixed my oil leak from the turbo drain line.

Then we tested the battery and it tested absolutely horrible. Tested alternator and it tested awesome. New battery and all electrical issues gone except for brake light, radio works even now, woohoo!! It runs amazing and way smoother than before and loves idling now. Never knew a battery could cause so much trouble!

All the good today though couldn't come without some bad - a decent amount of coolant was in my overflow.. However my overflow is way smaller than the factory and i'm hoping it was just excess coolant from filling it, that or left over from before changing the headgasket.

The wideband also is really bouncy still and likes to say I'm running 11.8-12.2 at idle and then bounce to 14.4-15.3 for awhile and then back. Driving it says I'm sitting at a healthy 14.6-15.0 so I may need a new sensor..

I should finally be able to actually get on it tonight or tomorrow, which I will do 1 or 2 small pulls and see if it pushes coolant. If so, I'm pulling it back apart, using L19 headstuds and a SCE Titan Gasket... money money but you gotta pay to play...

[AutoMods]

what head gasket do you have on it now?

[oVa-Boost]

hes has the Cometic Multi-Layer Steel Head Gasket i do believe i have heard they suck and dont seal rite

[Clinical]

Its the cometic mls. I'm thinking\hoping it is just excess coolant from filling it esp with the way my overflow sits.

However I finally got my dump tube finished and put it on a few hours ago and got on it for the first time and holy hell it scared me a little going completely sideways on the highway ind 2nd gear from a 40mph roll only at 22psi. I know its cold and all but I totally didn't expect it. It feels faster now at 22psi than it ever did at 25 and makes full boost by 4000 rpms.
Tests were cut short though as it started snowing. Is running real strong though.

[Jappbox]

Cometics are junk, they dont seal like the OEM multi layer mitsu one does. and copper spray is yur friend.

[slow ride]

Cometics work very well when the surfaces are smooth as cometic wants them to be. Most surfaces after a machine shop cuts them are not smooth enough and a good hand hone with some 400 to 800 grit does wonders. Coper spray for some insurance of water sealing, but it does nothing for combustion chamber sealing. The mr gasket MLS stuff is nice also so I've heard. After a certian point a oring is the best bet if it's pushing coolant.

[Clinical]

It may not be pushing, I did a couple hard 3rd gear pulls and some more driving around and no more has filled the overflow. I'm thinking it is hopefully just excess coolant from overfilling or I forgot to empty it before I replaced the headgasket. Time will tell.

Also question.

I'm not that good with tires/wheels. I just always just try to stick with stuff i KNOW will work.

I have someone with some hoosier ET streets that he used on a 16x7 wheel. Mine are 16x6's, will the hoosiers work on mine without much trouble?

[Drifte]

what is the width of the tire?

[Clinical]

I asked him and he said they're

26x9.5x16

[Drifte]

I wouldn't recommend running a 245 on a 6" wide wheel. Which is what that comes out to about. I run 235 or about 9.25" wide on 7.5" wide wheels and wouldn't go any wider for that size wheel. I know you have a straight line car, maybe thats considered ok?

[Clinical]

Yeah I'm not to sure.. Don't want to drop $300 on something I wont even be able to use on some cheap stock wheels.

I only would use them at the track.

[Clinical]

Per a thread on tuners I'd probably be okay doing it. However I may just keep on the hunt for some 15" and buy ICwicket's radials.. i still have a few months to save up money and find other deals.

On good news today I went to my buddy's shop and got my wheels all balanced, one was horrid. Now that my steering wheel isnt violently shaking at highways speeds, I did a full 3rd gear pull into 4th about halfway. Still no more coolant. Feeling a lot better about that :) Think it was just from overfilling.

[Clinical]

Car really hasn't been a priority lately with heavy school and trying to save money for a vacation I'm taking over the summer.

However it jumped time so I had to quit daily driving it, still not sure why it did when everythings new and I followed proper procedure. Retimed it though and it seems okay, need to get some more seat time in it before I call it good though, was only 2 or 3 teeth off. Weird thing is it jumped time when I started it when I was leaving class.

It just hasn't been a priority lately, trying to focus on school and work right now.

As of now though it starts and runs nice and smooth. All I need to do is toss the p/s pulley and belt on alt belt on and the water pump pully, put the wheels on and go but like I said it hasn't been a priority and I want to touch up a couple other things yet before I start driving it again.

I did get my new plates finally that I ordered a couple months ago
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/181722_1774767442716_1045228797_32060133_6318703_n .jpg

[Drifte]

uh 2-3 teeth?! I've seen cars get by with 1 tooth off but never more. Better replace that hydraulic tensioner, it must be getting weak.

[Clinical]

That's just it, it's all brand spankin new! All new oem hardware excluding my gates timing belt.
I followed proper procedure too, at least I think I did? I did the talon a couple times and never had an issue with it, and this thing I put on 600 miles in just 2 weeks without any issue.

It was running terribly rough with a bit of chatter now and then. I believe the valves were kissing the pistons. re-timed it runs very smooth and normal. However I won't know for sure until I drive it and get on it, especially since it could of created hot spots on the pistons. If the worst case scenario happens I figure it'd be a chance to also get those springs I want.

I think I lucked out from having slightly lower compression than stock, and that it jumped when being started and was never above 1500rpms

[Drifte]

Oh it was start up, I had an old beater that snapped the belt on start up. Had 180k on it! Nothing wrong and it was a n/t 9.5:1 compression motor. Make sure you are torqueing the tensioner pulley correctly. Look at the diagrams on Vfaq that show what direction that pulley should be facing. It has 2 little holes in it for a special tool (which you dont need). Use a inch pound torque wrench on it but I do it by hand first then check after and its right on. You can get a highly focused flash light to shine on the piston tops down the spark plug galley. You'll see if they made contact or not. Compression test will tell you too.

[AutoMods]

was there ever oil on that timing belt?

[85XR7Project]

For some reason I keep thinking about getting a DSM, something in the back of my mind tells me it's a bad idea though.

[Clinical]

was there ever oil on that timing belt?

Nope, not a drop. All cam seals and everything were all brand new, doesn't burn any oil and only leak it had was from the drain line which I fixed.

The car however has since been retimed and I've put it through its paces and it's fine. Compression is great, runs incredible as if nothing ever happened. Seemed to of dodged a bullet.

It's nice only paying 2.4x a gallon for e85 now, even if I get less mileage - with the 3.30 a gallon regular right now, E85 is actually saving quite a bit as I still get about 22mpg on it.

[Clinical]

For some reason I keep thinking about getting a DSM, something in the back of my mind tells me it's a bad idea though.

It's addicting. I wouldn't recommend it :P
The talon is still for sale in Chicago now for 4500. I'd be lying if I said I haven't thought about it... But I've got too much on my plate right now, the DSM, a turd gen TA that still needs some odds and ends, and a lt1 z28 that needs an opti and some other things.

[AutoMods]

if the belt skipped then I would have to think there is a reason for it and eventually it will do it again. maybe the tensioner pulley wasn't torque properly? that or throw a new oem belt on just to be sure

[Clinical]

if the belt skipped then I would have to think there is a reason for it and eventually it will do it again. maybe the tensioner pulley wasn't torque properly? that or throw a new oem belt on just to be sure
Yeah that's why I'm worried. Everything should of been fine last time around.

I never had a single issue with the talon and I had it apart a couple times.
I'm going to be taking it apart again though here soon to throw the timing covers back on and put my power steering back on and re-check everything.

It's been running/driving great lately, and even been cheaper with E85 still down at 2.44 a gallon

[Stutz]

I seen it for sale on ls1tech lol