B18A1/CRX help

[sLoWnStEaDy]

a couple things, fist being a bouncy idle second being turbo questions....

1. I got the motor built friday night after work and got it put in saturday morning. To my delight everything went VERY smoothly! It took only about 20 minutes toget the motor/trans put it and up and running. Everything was looking good no real issues except a "little" one. The idle is a little jumpy. It bounces form about 850~ to about 1100~ instead of just staying steady of course. Now when i first got the car it didn't do that, a couple days later it started bouncing but it was jumping from about 800RM~ to upwards of 2200RPM~ but the rings where fried and i was planning to rebuild anyways so i didn't bother mssing with it too much. I do know that the engine is running on the factory CRX wiring but am not sure what ECU it is running on or anything...


2. Now as soon as i get the idle right I am going to turbo it and had some questions about that as well. I AM going to search arounf the web of course as i always do but figure i will get it out there just as another source of info.
Mainly wondering about the wiring/ECU, I think i remember something about having to upgrade to atleast OBD1.5 or something in order to turbo?!?! going with some stock 450cc DSM injectors (the car has a resistor box on it). I am only planning 8-10 pounds of boost because i decided not to build the bottom end like i had originaly planned because I am focusing most of my money/effort on other projects and such. plus the car is a frikkin tin can so i won't need a crazy amount of power or anything. I will most be going with a 14B/16G and will be running an ebay FMIC (I know, but i don't care, it'll work fine)

[v-takEF]

try out this sight it helped me alot homemadeturbo.com

[krustindumm]

Sounds like your IACV is loose. Try these.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1575913
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2153910

You should find out what ecu you have, pull down the passenger side carpet, there's a cover w/ 4 bolts and a hole in the middle. The middle hole is to see the diagnostic light, it should turn on with the car, then shut off after a bit. It should not stay on or blink. Ttake the cover off and you will see the ecu. The part number is something like xxxxx-PM6-A01. The PM6 part is important, it may say something else like PR3, PW0, PS9, etc...


Turbo stuff...
You do not need OBD anything. The car is 'OBD0' in Honda-speak. DSM 450s is a good start, then you have several options. I'll explain the cheaper, because it works, and it's cheap. You need an Apex'I S-AFC or V-AFC. Either, no matter. You don't have VTEC but the V-AFC will give you the option to get that later, the S-AFC will not. Retard the base timing a few degrees, install the 450's, and wire in the AFC. Do a clean job with solder, follow the directions EXACTLY. Then take 40% off the fuel trim across the board. Tune from there.

DO NOT GET a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, don't even think about it. They are junk, and are not even worth using as a paper weight.

homemadeturbo is a GREAT resource, however, use it wisely. There has been a recent uproar so your best bet is to search and read a lot before posting, unless you are posting porn.

[v-takEF]

v-afc = junk and really a waste of time if you have one i would recommend selling it and getting hondata, xenochron or even chrome freeware is getting pretty good now days yes it may cost more but you get so much more... and yes i have used the v-afc JUNK!!!

[v-takEF]

and if you dont like the porn on HMT well your just not American Ç=

[krustindumm]

...and what have you put a turbo on?

Did you know that JD is a member here also?

[v-takEF]

ihavent turboed anything but i have built bolth spray and motor hondas and a few ls1's but i had a vafc on my bottled ls v-tec car and this guy is the 1 who convinced me they were junk he is the best person hands down for tuning hondata and k pro http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzIoH8_S ... annel_page (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzIoH8_S_xc&feature=channel_page) you should also look at a few of his other vids

[Drifte]

I think the point from Krustin (and you kinda clarified) was that you really have to know what your doing with those other tuning programs. afc is nearly idiot proof and works well. Its not perfect but its safe and cheap. I use safc, and I disagree that it is junk. Its not my best option, but it works and doesnt cost near as much.